The V8 Owners Forum -

My latest project is a MGB GT that I'm converting to a Rover V8. I have a late Discovery 3.9 engine to use a base but I'm wondering which timing cover and sump I need to use?

I have a 3.9 Range Rover timing cover, pulley and sump, will these fit OK? I realise I will need a remote oil filter too.

Thanks

Pre SD1 timing cover is best as its the shortest one.
The sump depends on which exhaust system you want to use. Several of the Rover sumps will clear the steering rack up front with no issues. But they wont have the rear end cutout to clear the exhaust cross over pipe.

To save yourself some aggro fit the RV8 style exhausts that exit through the inner wings as these flow much better than the cast manifolds and the block hugger type. And they can be modified at the collectors to go up to 3" pipes if required for future tuning.

You can buy the remote oil filter take off plate from Think automotive or MG owners club or MGB hive etc. Lots of places sell them, as well as the remote oil filter housing.

A lot depends on your budget really. If I was building from scratch I would not bother with a remote oil cooler. But I would go for a re cored MGB V8 rad with larger pipes in the core or go for broke and buy an ally rad for the MGB. And fit twin MGB V8 rad fans as per original spec at least.

Make sure you use exhaust heat wrap on the exhaust manifolds.

Make sure you convert the front brakes to MGB V8 spec.

Fit at least one engine steady bar between the passenger side cylinder head and the top of the inner wing as a minimum. Fit a second one to the other side if you can fit one in.

Fit standard MGB V8 rear leaf springs (avoid the parabolic springs for the MGB V8 at all costs) and fit them with Blue poly bushes. Also fit Blue poly bushes in the front suspension.

Uprate the front Anti Roll bar to at least 7/8" or 3/4" if you can.

Convert the diff to V8 ratio of 3.07:1 as the 3.9:1 diff will leave you wanting!

Not sure what gearbox you are thinking of ?

Not sure if you are going to use EFI or carb?

If your 3.9 has a long nosed crank you may need to find a P6 pulley to fit with a spacer so it will line up with the water pump on the P6 front timing cover and alternator pulley's.

How old is the MGB GT ?

The later ones have the rad mounted further forward which means the V8 will drop in without clearance issues for the water pump pulley.

You can get a lot of V8 conversion parts from "Clive Wheatley" http://mgv8.homestead.com/

Perry

Thanks for the reply, very informative

I'm actually quite far into the build now, it's a 1979 BGT so late spec engine bay.

I've fitted blue poly bushes to the rear along with a pair of telescopic dampers and anti-tramp bars. The axle has been fitted with the V8 ratio crown wheel & pinion. The springs are multi-leaf lowering springs although I forget the height.

Front suspension is standard dampers, polybushes and slightly lower/stiffer springs. I do plan to fit a bigger anti-roll bar but will do so once the car is on the road. I bought standard new calipers with some greenstuff pads, how do the V8 brakes differ?

I plan to use the Hotwire EFI from a Range Rover, although a carb is tempting I already have all the EFI equipment and would like the reliability of EFI. I will be using the RV8 style manifolds. What timing cover did the RV8 use, from what I can find out it was the Range Rover one? If it won't fit I will need to find a P6 front cover.

Gearbox will be an LT77, I have already trial fitted the engine & gearbox and modified the gearbox tunnel accordingly to clear the top of the gearbox.

I've seen a few conversions some with and some without the steady bar, I was going to try without one but I could make something to go from the head to the wing once I have the engine fitted.

I will need a new rad, so that's on the long list of expensive parts I need, although not quite yet.

The 3.9 is a interim serpentine engine so does have a long-nose crank, I converted a 4.6 to early cover to go in a 2 door range rover a few years back and remember using a spacer then too. I can probably machine something up on a lathe.

The body has had a load of new panels, spent a year doing the welding, it's nice to be done with that now. I'm removing the rubber bumpers and fitting the smooth sebring valences front and rear.

Here's the most recent photo;





Excuse the large metal spike from the back end, I'd just taken it off the spit-jig from the welding.

Looking good

So you are already well along with the conversion. The V8 front brakes are just a bit bigger.

The steady bar will just reduce engine roll under power from a standstill. Two steady bars will be better if you intend to give it the beans away from the traffic lights.

Not sure which cover the RV8 used. As long as the water pump pulley clears the rad you will be ok

Thanks, it certainly looks a lot better than when I started!

Am I right in thinking I also need a different starter motor as the Land Rover one doesn't fit.

I better have a look at steady bars, the reason for building this is fun, and part of that is giving it some stick from a standstill

Cheers for the information so far, I'm sure I'll have many more questions.

task wrote:Thanks, it certainly looks a lot better than when I started!

Am I right in thinking I also need a different starter motor as the Land Rover one doesn't fit.

I better have a look at steady bars, the reason for building this is fun, and part of that is giving it some stick from a standstill

Cheers for the information so far, I'm sure I'll have many more questions.

You need a starter motor with the solenoid at the bottom when fitted.

You can make your steady bars for cheap money. M10 or M12 studded rod + a few metal plates with nuts and washers and you are sorted. Drop me a PM and I'll send you some pics.. Perry

There are a number of timing covers for the RV8:
- 'Car' style as used on P5,P6,SD1. Water pump is 'low down'. Various water pumps and variations of oil pump / distributor drives. The later the better. Have a distributor.
- '4x4' style as used on Range Rovers. Water pump is 'high up'. Various water pumps and variations of oil pump / distributor drivers. The later the better. Have a distributor.
- Interim, so oil pump driven by crankshaft, but distributor still.
- Late Range Rover - as fitted to P38 Range Rover. Low down water pump, shortest from block to front of water pump. Crank driven oil pump. Connections for oil cooler. No distributor.

If you look partway down this page:
http://www.cowdery.org.uk/miscv8.php
there are pictures of a '4x4' style vs a late range rover cover.

You need the sump to match, and there are implications for the keyway in the crankshaft and even the length of the crankshaft that I forget offhand. For example I don't recall if you can fit the late Range Rover cover to the early crankshaft as the crank is shorter. You can definitely do it the other way around though (i.e. early cover to late crank).

There are also various starters. The late starters are small, the early ones large. The 4x4 starters have the solenoid in a different place to the car starters (to clear the front propshaft).

Lots of exhaust manifold options available. I would see if P38 Range Rover ones are any good as they are the only tubular ones available from the factory.

Chris.

The spacer from the crank can be made from a used timing chain sprocket. ( If you have a lathe)

Chris, your SD1 EFI shown has the factory anti-stall mod which was dealer fitted. Only on autos - it keeps the idle speed near constant when drive or reverse is selected. The air con has a second similar system.

Ive got a starter motor sitting around if you want it, I won't be using it again. It's been sat on a shelf for a few years, you can have it if you pay postage. PM me.

Don't really think a steady bar is that necessary, but then again like Perry says one can be knocked up pretty easily. RV8 headers definitely the way forward.