The V8 Owners Forum -

I've run a durite solenoid pump for years but it seems to have gone weak. On steep banks we were loosing one carb! But it has been on for over ten years, so a good life really.
I was thinking of getting the same durite unit, but I thought about the more common red-top Facet (or one of the others in the range). It's similar money and has a strainer built in for simplicity. Asking on a landy forum the holley rotary pump was also mentioned. It has a regulator built in and might be better suited when the carbs are a meter above the pump?
Given that the SU HIF carbs have a return line and restrictor, have you a preference on one of these pumps, or maybe another?
(the bosch044 looks good, but I don't want to rebuild the ally fuel tank)
Thanks in advance

I you go for a Facet, leave the red top and go for a blue top instead.
Blue tops are more durable.

Bosch 044 will be far too overkill, they're meant for big power efi engines.

I'm a bit further on. We think the holley is too much for the job.
We think the solid state facet is too little, even with 2.
I liked the durite, but I think I will go facet red or blue top.
But the blue is points switch, and I have SU points pump on the old 1958 landy. They aren't inspiring, even if they are fixed with a rub of sand paper
I am sure I like the Mocal fuel gauge. It's in white so I can see it and is the right price range. I'll be able to see what is going on and adjust the leak-back to a viable average for the SU carbs.

SUs used points because that's all there was when they were designed. But you can convert them to solid state switching. I'd expect a modern pump to use modern techniques.

http://www.roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.php? ... ath=41_122

Could be worth a call

Ian

Yes, well worth a call at 5 litre/min (approx.) That's the right money and looks to be industrial rated. And more sensible 1/4 fittings to boot!
Thanks for the help.
At least I'm down to 2 front runners

Those carter pumps are perfect for you. But they are a bit noisy. They need a flooded suction otherwise they wear quickly. They will do some suction lift as I used mine like this for a few year on the 1/4 mile. Only lifting about 6" though. Also no spares for these as far as I know because they are sealed units.

They come with a bracket and grommets so you can sort of isolate them from the body of the car.

Perry

I'm using a Pierburg rollervane pump which is mounted inline on the crossmember outside the tank on my 4.6 SD1 with Eddy 500.

Supposed to support up to 340hp, rated at 3.9 - 5.5 psi, delivers 130 litres per hour (34.34GPH), self priming, lift capable, no return, very quiet, weighs 0.5kilo.

I think they were OE on some Porsches. Got it from Injectacarb

www.injectacarb.com.au

mgbv8 wrote:Those carter pumps are perfect for you. But they are a bit noisy. They need a flooded suction otherwise they wear quickly. They will do some suction lift as I used mine like this for a few year on the 1/4 mile. Only lifting about 6" though. Also no spares for these as far as I know because they are sealed units.

They come with a bracket and grommets so you can sort of isolate them from the body of the car.

Perry

How noisy are they?
The Facit Red Top ticking / hammering away can even be heard over the GT40 noice from inside the cab

IAn

Ian Anderson wrote:

mgbv8 wrote:Those carter pumps are perfect for you. But they are a bit noisy. They need a flooded suction otherwise they wear quickly. They will do some suction lift as I used mine like this for a few year on the 1/4 mile. Only lifting about 6" though. Also no spares for these as far as I know because they are sealed units.

They come with a bracket and grommets so you can sort of isolate them from the body of the car.

Perry

How noisy are they?
The Facit Red Top ticking / hammering away can even be heard over the GT40 noice from inside the cab

IAn

They make a droning whizzing noise Ian. Not far off a holley red or blue pump to be honest. Just a tad softer though.
It doesnt bother me of course cos I only race mine now. it was a bit annoying when it was a road car though as it was exposed in the boot behind me

If the fedral mogal doesn't suck well it could be an issue, as the pump is near the top? Anything below the top of the chassis needs to be armoured or very robust, as the mud is normally full of hidden woodwork. And the crank driven winch means it is going through it



I've come back around to the red top + kit I think
I can't see it leaving me short of flow, as it used to do 3 miles to the gallon with a standard SU. I do like the idea of a motor rather than solenoid though....

If I hate it I can always keep it as a spare, which would be sensible anyway, as our 6 hour competition got cut short by an hour and half.

Hi
If I am not much mistaken someone appears to have tried to bury your landrover!
For what it is worth I would be inclined to use a pair of red tops in parrallel mounted in a protcetive aluminium case alongside the front of the fuel tank if you can get it to fit you would need to check them for operation more frequently than just a single pump but this sort of redundent approach would avoid being cought out in a muddy hole!
I have seen one so caked in mud that had leaked into the guts of the pump that it would no longer operate.
Best regards
Mike

If you do as Mike suggests put in non return valves after both pumps as the new Facits do not have them built in any more!

Ian

Yes, twinies is the way forward. And I would, but I really spanked the bank account this month on repairing the 1991 BT 190 transit tow motor. (landy is a trailer queen) It's how the cost of these hobbies gets out of control

Probably a good thing to add to the winter-refit program. I'll put the new one to one side in the box, so a second is an easy fit later. Gives me time to find some one-ways.

Thanks for the help,
Steve