The V8 Owners Forum -

Dear all,

Recent 5.0 rebuild on my landy due to flywheel problems - and took the opportunity to fit a "stage 3" paddle clutch for LK performance. 8 paddle 10.5 inch design, after initial incorrect friction plate was replaced I was quite pleased with the product. Fitted no problems, and running well. Prior to fitting this clutch I was told that this would make my landy Un-drivable. I fitted it due to 300bhp and NOS shot being too much for most items.

I am pleased to say that the change is smooth and it drives very well, I have taken my lifted, non PAS landy shopping with this clutch and parked with multiple managers no problem, and have been stuck twice in Birmingham traffic with little or no problems with drivability. Would recommend this clutch setup, and urge people not to be frightened away from this clutch design.

Many thanks

Dave

Well done sounds like a good result. . .I think you are have demonstrated again that what is acceptable as clutch action to one person is not to another, some can live with 3 disc multiplate clutches all day no problem others cannot even pull away without kangarooing off the line, some like paddle type clutches with the extra "bight" some can only handle a flat disc ever tried a ducatti dry plate clutch, now that is an aquired tast!
Just one thing how on earth did you find anything on their website? what a mess!!
Best regards
Mike

I have a Helix paddle clutch in my Cob, I can't remember how many 'pucks' it has, either 3 or 4. I get a slight judder sometimes as the clutch bites but otherwise it is very good!

Their website is rubbish - but a fleabag search led me to the correct item - but this still was not correct;-) had to send my old friction plate as a pattern. It's running very nicely, done 300 miles in it this week. Just wondered, quick poll, I'm running it in following these principles 1) minimum idle time 2) at original start a good few minutes at 3000 rpm (not a new cam and followers this time), 3) ensure not too rich 4) long mway drives but some round town unavoidable obviously 5) not over 4000 rpm (except for once;-)) 6) morris lubricants running in oil. what do you guys use as a running in principle?? It's had a bottom end rebuild with fed-mogul rings and bearings and a re-hone of the bores. Oiles the bores prior to piston fit - but apparently I was mistaken, should have used WD40

For fleabag -read flea bay

Personally I'd have thought that motorway driving is not ideal for running in- you want to make it work- get cylinder pressures up to keep the rings pushed out against the bores- ticking over along a flat road won't do this, hills are best in a high-ish gear, or other stop-start driving will do if you make it work by changing up earlier.

Also the only reason you run it at 2500-3000rpm on start up is to bed in a new cam and followers, no need if cam has not been replaced.

Yes, I understand mate. Will make it work a bit more, but that did cross my mind, what about rev limiting?? Any reason or rule of thumb?? Have 4000 ish in my mind?? Can't think of a specific reason really??