The V8 Owners Forum -

hi guys,
Need some advice before I go mad.. I am at the stage where I want to try and get the engine running in the Moss, its a P6 engine with normal dizzy and points.
I am getting spark, I have petrol and some firing on maybe 2 cylinder its seems.. I don't know if the engine is any good, same with the carb and dizzy as the package was bought from under a tarp !
I took a 4 cylinder alfo engine out and put the V8 in, Should I be using a Ballast resistor or can I use a 12v coil and not need one ?
I have wired the coil and dizzy as it was for the alfa engine but want to make sure this is correct before I start tracing the problem(s)
I have 1 wire on the coil +ve assuming from the ignition and 2 on the -ve side, one of which goes to the dizzy, not traced the other yet...
Is that how it should be ?

Thanks
Stu

If it's a 'points' distributor (which it should be if it's from a P6), then this is the score:
Coil -ve goes to distributor points. It will also go to the tacho.
+12V from the ignition switch on the 'run' circuit will run through a ballast resistor to coil +ve.
There will also be a wire from the starter solenoid to coil +ve. It might run from the ignition switch, on the starter circuit to coil +ve.

If in doubt, get a spare battery and hook it via a ballast resistor to coil +ve. Just remember not to leave it connected for too long otherwise the coil will get too hot.

Chris.

Thanks Chris, right heres what I have done:
Wire from ignition through a ballast resistor to the +ve side of coil.
Wire from -Ve side of coil to the distributor
Wire from the starter solenoid wire (the wire that comes from the igntion to the starter motor) to the +ve side of coil

This is correct >?

Its just a few wires but they stump me every time

Stu

Camo wrote:Thanks Chris, right heres what I have done:
Wire from ignition through a ballast resistor to the +ve side of coil.
Wire from -Ve side of coil to the distributor
Wire from the starter solenoid wire (the wire that comes from the igntion to the starter motor) to the +ve side of coil

This is correct >?

Its just a few wires but they stump me every time

Stu

Hi Stu.
The last wire in your list is incorrect. If you connect it like you say then the feed to the coil +ve will drain back into the starter solenoid unless you introduce a diode or use a relay.

Hopefully you have an additional small terminal on the starter. Later motors tend not to have this extra terminal. This terminal becomes live when the starter is running and this is the one to connect to the coil +ve.

If you haven't got this extra terminal then you need to introduce a relay and wire it so it switches on when the starter is running. The contacts in the relay are then used to send 12V to the coil +ve terminal.

Someone else on here may be able to advise on a suitable diode instead of using a relay

Regards Denis

Ok thats makes sense as I got burnt using my set up
I am sure there is a set up / kit I can buy that not only gets rid of the points/condensor set up and removes the need for a Ballast resistor ?
Ie, dizzy, coil etc and fitting instructions

Stu

Easiest way is to fit a later dizzy like a DLM from an SD1. You may need to change the drive pinion too, though.

Righto, here's where I am at:
Set tdc etc put in dizzy, I get lots of popping inside the cylinder head, not back through the carb, though just to check I have taken out the dizzy, turned it 180 and I get no pops or bangs at all so assume I have set the dizzu correctly.
I can't get past this stage right now, Battery back on charge for my next attempts !
Am I just going to have to start replacing new for old until I get some joy ?
FYI the engine, carb, dizzy etc are all unknown quantities

Thanks,

Stu

What method did you use to set the timing?

Little white mark on the pulley lined up with the metal marker thingy, cylinder 1 spark plug out and the gap at its shortest, plop in the dizzy with the rotor arm pointing at the empty spark plug cylinder ... if that makes sense to anyone.

Stu

You need to set the dizzy so the points are only just opening on the timing mark. A DVM set to continuity buzzer is the easiest way - it will buzz when the points are closed and stop when they open. In my day you use a fag paper between them and when it could only just be pulled out was when they were starting to open.

That should be close enough to get it started - then use a timing light to set the timing accurately.

My technique to set the timing is this:

Remove the 'even side' rocker cover and turn the engine until both valves on no. 6 are equally open.
Fit the distributor so that it is just about to spark, and the rotor arm is pointing at No. 1.

Away you go!

Chris.

Where in surrey are you Stu??

I'm often around the area so would be happy to pop in and help for an hour to get the timing set etc..

Perry

Hi Perry,

Took a break over Christmas, gonna start back at it soon !
I am in Tolworth in Surrey if that rings a bell ?
Any help is welcome and will be met with coffee and maybe biscuits

Stu