The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi,

Tank is new, fresh fuel
Line and filter are new
It's on a regulator at 2psi with a 2-3psi facet electric pump which is beneath the rear chassis. Ticks fine and pumps through to end of pipe at carb ok.

Wondered if it is electrical, something breaking down at higher revs or when warm

Engine temp says normal
Fan is not viscous but electric on a separate switch

Thought the coil was warm ish so I had a spare an swapped it and it made no difference

I drove to mot place about 20 miles away, they had it idling etc
Turned off for about 20mins to do paperwork
Got 16 miles home and she's stalling.

Did the same on the same journey a 2nd time but not as bad.
Carb is a 38dgas that came off a running car

Can't tell if thermostat is opening

Tank has a breather hose looped up and over an back below tank level and its clear of obstruction.

It's an sd1 dizzy with a recently new cap on it. It looks fine.

Leave vehicle to go fully cold at seems to be fine until it does it all again.

Any ideas where i can start looking to troubleshoot?

Cheers,
Richard

Hi
2-3 psi seems a bit low to me. I would want to see 4-5 to be happy everything was going to work OK.
Best regards
Mike

tried increasing it and it does the same thing.
idles fine
drives fine - ish
kangeroos after same time / distance

Hi
When you say the 38 dgas came off a running car. . . was that a running 3.5 rover or another engine (say a 3 litre ford V6 boat anchor)?
Does it have one of those horrible bi-metalic strip auto chokes on it?
Best regards
Mike

Genuine Landrover Cap or pattern?

If Pattern I think upi may have to buy a genuine one

Lots of info on here about pattern ones breaking down far too soon
Ian

As reply on Locostbuilders

Check the dizzy - what sort is it?

OPUS - Bin
Alloy pack - Bin
Side electronic type - change unit - see posts here for alernative packs

Andrew

its the dlm8 one from what i can tell looking at the pics of the types.

is is just worth replacing the bit on the side or go full package to something like
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/v8 ... ition-coil

and add in
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/el ... -red-rotor

and hope that this cures it?

the carb came off a running sd1 and i think the cap came from paddocks but can't really be sure.

The amp on the DLM tends to either work or not, in my experience of several failures. Although it can fail when hot, then work again after it cools. But not known one to cause a misfire.

I'd be wary about buying one of those new cheap repro dizzies, if the SD1 forum is anything to go by. In any case, it would probably be cheaper to overhaul the original - if it needs it.

would it alone cause sudden loss of power and stalling?

One failure I had caused the engine to cut out completely. Leave it a while and it would start again - until the next time. The actual amp was oscillating when in this fault condition putting a series of spikes into the coil with the engine stopped. This might show as an AC voltage on a DVM at the coil negative with the engine stopped - it certainly showed on a 'scope.

Interestingly the failure I had with the DML8 was exactly as the OP describes - would just gradually run out of sparks. - Started with not enough puff to run 6 and 8 being the longest leads

I binned the whole thing - stripped out - removed and fixed baseplate and re-curved an old Opus type and fitted with a Lumi.

Andrew