Rate my porting?
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:43 pm
Hi just wondered what people thought of this porting, does I need more or is it ok? Just to add its not my handiwork!
Cheers mike
Cheers mike
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Rate my porting?
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:44 pm
Oh the first pic, can anyone tell if that's standard or has it being opened up any? Cheers
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:55 pm
Apart from the obvious wizz round with the die grinder below the valve seat area looks stock to me especially those EFI intake ports 
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:01 pm
Fair enough to be honest it didn't look much to me but they were sold as gas flowed heads? Think I'll have a go at it on a spare pair of heads.
I've just been comparing sizes between head and exhaust manifold, using tin gaskets, are these the ones I should use or are the "foil" type better?
Cheers mike
I've just been comparing sizes between head and exhaust manifold, using tin gaskets, are these the ones I should use or are the "foil" type better?
Cheers mike
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:32 pm
SimpleSimon wrote:Apart from the obvious wizz round with the die grinder below the valve seat area looks stock to me especially those EFI intake ports
What he said above !!!
They have just had quick whizz round behind the vlave seats. They wont make any more power with that little bit of work done. But it does show that they have a bit of scope for more serious porting to be done.
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:11 pm
Ok slightly disappointing that's what a well known company are selling as gas flowed then? Not to worry least I didn't pay for it!
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 1:10 pm
who did them
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 1:59 pm
I'd rather not say on a public forum, I'm not into name bashing, if you want to know pm me and I'll tell you, cheers mike.
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:17 pm
How much did they charge? Did they do a 3 angle cut on the valve seats or anything like that?
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:35 pm
I bought the car with engine fitted so I've only a full engine cost which probably won't help.
The engine cost me very little in the end so it doesn't matter too much to me
The engine cost me very little in the end so it doesn't matter too much to me
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:27 pm
That's not too bad then!Automania wrote:I bought the car with engine fitted so I've only a full engine cost which probably won't help.
The engine cost me very little in the end so it doesn't matter too much to me
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:23 am
Hi
Don't use the gasket to match the ports to the inlet manifold. You end up with the port face opened too far, locate the heads to the inlet manifold and match the two by renoving the minimum of material from both.
Looking on the bright side by taking off so little material there is less chance they are worse than standard!
Best regards
Mike
Don't use the gasket to match the ports to the inlet manifold. You end up with the port face opened too far, locate the heads to the inlet manifold and match the two by renoving the minimum of material from both.
Looking on the bright side by taking off so little material there is less chance they are worse than standard!
Best regards
Mike
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:43 pm
Are the heads stamped with the modification stage by the tuner? If they are then I dont see the issue with a photo of the stamp to name them - if that's what they put their name to on a specific stage tune then they must be happy with it.
To be honest there are more than a few heads out there that look very nice but the material is removed from the wrong place and offer no more than casting falsh removal with an emery band.
Your photo does not show the critical area for modification on the port short side.
If they were listed as "xxx" S1 it would not surprise me.
Andrew
To be honest there are more than a few heads out there that look very nice but the material is removed from the wrong place and offer no more than casting falsh removal with an emery band.
Your photo does not show the critical area for modification on the port short side.
If they were listed as "xxx" S1 it would not surprise me.
Andrew
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:21 pm
At the risk of upsetting someone I would personally take those straight back to whoever sold them and ask for my money back, actually I probably wouldn't have accepted them when I inspected them on collection, firstly I would expect to have clean castings, and whoever has done the work couldn't be bothered to decoak them before running the grinder, secondly the valve seats are receded into the heads, thirdly the guides are the originals, to be honest I would have expect the first thing to do would have been to renew the seat inserts and guides they are not stage anything as far as I see because the first thing to do would be to bring the heads to original condition before you take a die grinder to them.
To be honest they are a discrace and you should name who sold them as they should not be selling old unrefurbished head castings as suitable for use.
Best regards
Mike
PS this isn't the return of Lund is it?
To be honest they are a discrace and you should name who sold them as they should not be selling old unrefurbished head castings as suitable for use.
Best regards
Mike
PS this isn't the return of Lund is it?
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:42 pm
Hi
On fresh heads the top of the valve seat insert should be flush with the inside of the chamber then the valve seat should be cut into the insert so that the first angle cut across the chamber and seat insert are one continious surface if you look at the heads you can see the insert starts at a level below that of the chamver, further at some point someone has made a new first cut that has removed some material from the chamber and probably created the first angle on the seat insert butas the two paarts have not been continious when this cut was made there is a step down to the insert, then over time the seats have moved further back into the head and the valve above the seat has started to come into contact with the ally of the head below the cut and caused that concave shape and step to the seat. The result is heavy shrouding of the valve as it has to get above the level of the chamber surface before it will begin to flow. You would be far better getting the seat inserts replaced so all the valve seats start at the surface of the chamber and not 60 thou or so into the head.
Best regards
Mike
PS Seem to be out of sequance here
On fresh heads the top of the valve seat insert should be flush with the inside of the chamber then the valve seat should be cut into the insert so that the first angle cut across the chamber and seat insert are one continious surface if you look at the heads you can see the insert starts at a level below that of the chamver, further at some point someone has made a new first cut that has removed some material from the chamber and probably created the first angle on the seat insert butas the two paarts have not been continious when this cut was made there is a step down to the insert, then over time the seats have moved further back into the head and the valve above the seat has started to come into contact with the ally of the head below the cut and caused that concave shape and step to the seat. The result is heavy shrouding of the valve as it has to get above the level of the chamber surface before it will begin to flow. You would be far better getting the seat inserts replaced so all the valve seats start at the surface of the chamber and not 60 thou or so into the head.
Best regards
Mike
PS Seem to be out of sequance here