The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi Guys
please could someone be so kind to advise on a good base setting for jets and rods, at present carb is running 086 mains, 065 x 052 rods, red springs and .095 secondary and is running rich as hell, plugs are black and exhaust pipes are too, car runs well above 2k, but is a nightmare below and on tick over, have fitted a new dizzy and leads as thought it maybe a ignition issue? engine has been rebuild recently and only covered about 50miles

Cheers

Ralph

Number 6 on the Edelbrock 1404 calibration chart is a good place to start.

I've done a shed load of work on these carbs, they generally run rich on most Rover lumps!

Here is a link to some gumph that I wrote ages ago. I have changed a few of my ideas now, I do think that the carb setup differs between engine sizes. (I state otherwise in the link)

Really the best way to set the carb up is with an LC1 or something similar to monitor the exhaust gas.

My 4.6 runs homemade rods but you can get very close to my setup using 83 primaries, 65-47 rods, silver springs and 80 secondaries. On the primary side of the carb this setup will be 16% leaner than base and the same as base during acceleration. (Please note that I can not say for sure that this is the setup for your engine!)


Here's the link..

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system


Muscle Manta on this forum can supply you with jets, rods and springs.

sidecar wrote:I've done a shed load of work on these carbs, they generally run rich on most Rover lumps!

Here is a link to some gumph that I wrote ages ago. I have changed a few of my ideas now, I do think that the carb setup differs between engine sizes. (I state otherwise in the link)

Really the best way to set the carb up is with an LC1 or something similar to monitor the exhaust gas.

My 4.6 runs homemade rods but you can get very close to my setup using 83 primaries, 65-47 rods, silver springs and 80 secondaries. On the primary side of the carb this setup will be 16% leaner than base and the same as base during acceleration. (Please note that I can not say for sure that this is the setup for your engine!)


Here's the link..

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system


Muscle Manta on this forum can supply you with jets, rods and springs.

Hi Sidecar
thank you very much, will give them a go, was getting a little confused with all the differences, still will get the parts and see how it runs

Cheers

Ralph

Raffa wrote:

sidecar wrote:I've done a shed load of work on these carbs, they generally run rich on most Rover lumps!

Here is a link to some gumph that I wrote ages ago. I have changed a few of my ideas now, I do think that the carb setup differs between engine sizes. (I state otherwise in the link)

Really the best way to set the carb up is with an LC1 or something similar to monitor the exhaust gas.

My 4.6 runs homemade rods but you can get very close to my setup using 83 primaries, 65-47 rods, silver springs and 80 secondaries. On the primary side of the carb this setup will be 16% leaner than base and the same as base during acceleration. (Please note that I can not say for sure that this is the setup for your engine!)


Here's the link..

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system


Muscle Manta on this forum can supply you with jets, rods and springs.

Hi Sidecar
thank you very much, will give them a go, was getting a little confused with all the differences, still will get the parts and see how it runs

Cheers

Ralph

You need to be aware that if you go too lean on the cruise it will run like a dog!

Mr Muscle can help you get with jet and rod combo's that might work. The calibration kit is full of stuff which has no hope in hell of working!

I realize it can be a bit costly but welding in an AFR monitor has done wonders for my setup

DaviesDJ wrote:I realize it can be a bit costly but welding in an AFR monitor has done wonders for my setup

I agree and I think that it can still work out cheaper than a long session on a rolling road. (Plus I think that some of the RR operators know nothing about how these carbs work anyway which makes the whole thing potentially a waste of time)

Hi Guys
Well after finishing interior of the car, its back to the bloody rich running eldebrock 500cfm, I changed the jets as listed and it still drives like a complete dog
so if you could help it would be appreciated or failing that I gonna take a 14lb hammer to the engine

engine runs at 1500rpm without the idle screw? will not idle any lower
Engine back fires/ reacon its fuel
Plugs back as hell
when driving with the engine at low revs, the best way I can put it, is I must look like I am giving myself a bj sorry
above 2k revs car runs well as long as I am on the throttle, if I back off it haunts badly, so as you can imagine its horrible to drive

cheers in advance hopefully

raffa

Your choke is not on is it?

A good thing to do with the choke is to lock it in the open position.

what fuel pump are you using and does it deliver the fuel at the correct pressure for the carb?

sidecar wrote:Your choke is not on is it?

A good thing to do with the choke is to lock it in the open position.

what fuel pump are you using and does it deliver the fuel at the correct pressure for the carb?

Hi Sidecar

No choke on mate and am using a facet 6-7.5psi fuel pump, could you advise on fuel pressure as am happy to get a regulator , cheers

If you have no idle screw so basically the primary throttles should be completely closed ? You should verify this by trying to look into the carb from above or best by removing the carb from the manifold. Basically you should have the primaries cracked slightly open so that the transition slot in the throttle bore is about 0,5 mm visible. Too much and you will have no control on the idle mixture.

Edelbrock recommends max. 6 psi at idle. You should get a regulator and set it at 5 psi.

Hi
If you cannot get the idle down and the throttle plate is fully closed it would suggest to me you have a big air leak somewhere in the body of the carb, probably one or both of the throttle shafts, a crack in the casting a dammaged throttle blade, it can't run at 1500-2000 revs without air going into the inlet, no matter how rich the carb is set, and if the air leakwas below the carb it would be very lean at idle, not what you are describing. The other possability is that the throttle peddle/ arm/ cable are sticking and the throttle is not closing for that reason. . .
Best regards
Mike

minorv8 wrote:If you have no idle screw so basically the primary throttles should be completely closed ? You should verify this by trying to look into the carb from above or best by removing the carb from the manifold. Basically you should have the primaries cracked slightly open so that the transition slot in the throttle bore is about 0,5 mm visible. Too much and you will have no control on the idle mixture.

Edelbrock recommends max. 6 psi at idle. You should get a regulator and set it at 5 psi.

Hi Minorv8
Thanks very much and will check, have ordered a regulator and hopefully this will help some, the 0.5mm, is this adjusted by the 2 screws located at the front of the carb and is this the distance the opening should be, sorry but am learning
regards

Raffa

Raffa wrote:

minorv8 wrote:If you have no idle screw so basically the primary throttles should be completely closed ? You should verify this by trying to look into the carb from above or best by removing the carb from the manifold. Basically you should have the primaries cracked slightly open so that the transition slot in the throttle bore is about 0,5 mm visible. Too much and you will have no control on the idle mixture.

Edelbrock recommends max. 6 psi at idle. You should get a regulator and set it at 5 psi.

Hi Minorv8
Thanks very much and will check, have ordered a regulator and hopefully this will help some, the 0.5mm, is this adjusted by the 2 screws located at the front of the carb and is this the distance the opening should be, sorry but am learning
regards

Raffa

I used to run a facet pump, the PSI that they put out is fine on an Eddy carb without a regulator. Personally I don't like regulators but that's just my humble!

The two screws at the front are the idle mixture control screws, they will affect the idle RPM but only be the fact that you will be changing the mixture ratio. The tickover screw is located on the end on the primary shaft just under where the throttle cable attaches to the carb.

Raffa wrote:
sorry but am learning

Raffa

With regards to the quote above have a read of this....

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system