The V8 Owners Forum -

After winching and getting stuck with the def V8 the temperature rises very fast and hard.
I have a autobox fitted and the cooler sits directly in front of the rad ( transaver cooler)

If i drive no problems, if it sits stil even at idle the temp rises.
Unless i keep the bonnet open.

So wath to do ?
Oil cooler ?
Extra water cooler fitted in the cabine that could help in winters to keep some kind of heat in the car


My car is a home build ninety V8 and autobox from a range classic.

If it's fine at speed it means the rad is an adequate size. So what you need to do at low speeds or stop is increase the airflow through it. Have you already got a viscous coupled fan? Later engines (EFI) have a temperature controlled one. Otherwise a decent electric one.

I would agree, get a better fan.

Once it is hot and you start driving again how quickly does the temperatue drop?

Ian

Ian Anderson wrote:Once it is hot and you start driving again how quickly does the temperatue drop?

Ian

This depends on the weather.
Quick enough when i also use the heater fan.
Without the heater fan if street use after 1 a 2 kilometer.
My fan is a visco and it works, it tried to stop it with a plastic bottle.
I thougt to fit a fan in front of the rad however with the transaver cooler there is no room.
I already have a X- eng temp sender fitted, would it be better to use 2 electric fans instead of the visco ? Behind the rad then.
I seems ones the heat from the exhaust collectors has heated the engine bay i gets to hot. Dont want to wrap the collectors to prevent overheating my valves because i run on lpg only.
I could drill some extra cooling holes in the bonnet however don't know if this realy helps a lot.
I dont have a snorkel at the moment so it sucks hot air from under the bonnet, does this make a difference ???

Thanks for the advice already.

Steven

EFI models have a viscous fan that 'locks up' when hot. Needs the later matching water pump. But it is more efficient than the normal viscous one.

DaveEFI wrote:EFI models have a viscous fan that 'locks up' when hot. Needs the later matching water pump. But it is more efficient than the normal viscous one.

The one i have is locked up enough i think, no way of stopping it with a plastic bottle.
Just tested that with the bonnet open in doesnt overheat, when i close the bonnet after some time the bonnet and wings gets very hot and it slowy overheats except when i put the heater fan on.
This was with engine and gearbox cold, so if the autobox is already warm it happens faster.
After a drive of 10 kilometer an hour later, bonnet and wings feel cold and the temperature is ok.

With the later temperature controlled type, you're in no doubt when it locks as it gets very much noisier.

Personally I would think your radiator may be a bit marginal for your set up.

1 when my car gets hot and I get a clear section of road above40 mph within a few hundred meters the temperature starts dropping. My rad is very efficient 30 by 60. Cm core unit 5 row core. And even it is not most efficient as it is 10 cm from the road and so is drawing in hot air off the road.
2 that said I do have a good outlet behind the dad so heat can move
3 I run twin high capacity fans and if engine heats up in traffic engine gets to 95 manually turn on fans and a minute later it will be. At about 85 degrees. You can actually watch the gauge moving.

So afew more questions
What radiator are you running?
How old?
Has it been cleaned out recently both inside for the water and outside for the air?
Have you got a shroud around your radiator? Both from the front so all air entering your grill is forced through the radiator and behind so that when relying on the fan it is not only cooling the circle covered by the fan but will draw air through the whole radiator?
Yes cutting holes in the bonnet will help to evacuate hot air but consider tjis only a band aid until you sort out the cooling issue
And running on LPG tends to run an engine hotter than petrol so you are testing your marginal system pretty hard!

Ian

Need pictures of the current setup.

But it just sounds like you need more cold airflow through the radiator....which can mean many things.

Not just a fan.

Fan
Shrouding
Ensure no hot air can re-circulate back through the front
Ensure hot air doesnt get trapped under the bonnet ( small vents in the bonnet can help, placed roughly middle of the bonnet as this is a low pressure area, the rear is not )

Still trying to post a pic

http://i47.tinypic.com/n7ryc.jpg

I think my problem is that i don't have a plate around the tunnel. I called land rover to get a origenel one, to much money for me, will make my one

Hi
I have had some experience of cooling fans on air compressors, and have had problems with the size of the gap between the fan and shroud. Looking at your pic I don't think the gap is small enough, so the fan will be drawing air through the gap instead of air through the rad.
HTH Stu

Steven 90 wrote:Still trying to post a pic



I think my problem is that i don't have a plate around the tunnel. I called land rover to get a origenel one, to much money for me, will make my one

The one on my SD1 EFI covers the entire rad and has about 1/2" clearance from the blades.

The gap around the edges of the fan does look huge. Plus some of the radiator core looks like it's full of mud.

is there not a more OEM style shroud that ducts air through the entire core and fan, rather than just the circle in the middle ?

There is the problem! Put on a genuine v8 90/110 fan cowl and as long as the rad is OK your problems should be sorted (not very expensive from Landy breakers). You can put on a 3.9 fan (11 blades) but it will not fit in the normal fan cowl and a range rover one will not fit without butchery. The 3.9 fan is also very noisey in a 90 until it unclutches. I will put a picture of mine up later (get the wife to do it!), I do not have an temperature issues when in mud or winching or towing up steep hills.

Toby