The V8 Owners Forum -

Good afternoon

I am in the middle of working on a defender that has been converted to a 4.2 ( used to be a 3.5 )

It's a manual box that's in the defender and when we have had a look it has had the end of the crank cut off with a grinder because the spigot bearing housing won't fit through the flywheel.

Has the 3.9 flywheel got a larger hole where it fits onto the crank?

I am now having to put a new crank since there is no where to fit the spigot bearing.

Any help with the flywheel problems would be great.

Russ

If it makes any difference it bolts to a lt85 box.

Hi Russ,
The only time I've heard of having to cut the end off the crank is when going from auto to manual and the clutch fouls the longer end on the auto crank. Don't think it applies to all years though. I converted my 4.2 from auto to manual without having to resort to an angle grinder - mines a '92 engine.
Mike

Hi mike

The only reason I can see why this has been done is the flywheel not fitting onto the crank, it's a he'll of a mess how it's been cut!

It's been cut so that it's not locating the flywheel at all

Going to put a new crank in and go from there, even if I have to machine the flywheel it's got to be better than cutting the crank.

Russ

Hi
I think you have very thoroughly answerd your own question, it would scare the willies out of me to think of having the flywheel only located by the bolts
Sir you are a wise man indeed.
Best regards
Mike

As far as I am aware, all the crankshafts are the same. So I wonder if the LT85 has the wrong input shaft?

Chris.

Just to drag this back up.

Had the defender back in with a slipping clutch. ( again )

Just pulled the box clutch still seems new but changed it and problem still there, doesn't slip to much when engine cool but when hot slips really bad.

Having a good look it's got a new master cyl and slave cyl. Now a new clutch but its still slipping.

Anyone any ideas?

Thanks.

Can you remove the clutch slave cylinder, then go for a drive and see if it still slips?
(I realise it is more difficult to drive without a clutch!).

You can then at least prove it's not the slave cylinder holding the clutch open a bit.

Chris.

Is there adjustment on the pedal like the series 3's?, I can't remember off hand, undo the six bolts holding the plate on top of the master cylinder. I'm thinking has this been overadjusted and that's the reason?

Automania,

I checked this today and adjusted it so there was a small amount of free play on the pedal. This seemed great but again it warmed up and started slipping, also noticed when warm the free play totally went and the pedal went back solid, just a daft question could the rod from the slave cyl be a little to long?

Russ

Sticking release bearing on its guide when warm. Damaged hydraulic hose holding the fluid in the slave cylinder misaligned clutch shaft from the slave cylinder to the clutch release arm. Faulty hydraulics (even though there new) can be faulty. Contaminated clutch with oil and grease or possible causes

I would suspect that its the clutch release bearing sticking on the guide.

Russ
There are so many clutch release arrangments for the rover and it's associated boxes that unless you removed the release set up with the box and flywheel then it is more than likley you have some miss matched components, there have over the years been many threads on the subject of rover clutch release not working properly and normally it is down to wrong push rod, wrong off set for the flywheel wrong release bearing, the list goes on. I would surggest finding as many parts lists for the various set ups that exist and then try and make sure the set up you have matches one set as listed then go from there.
Best of luck
Mike

I would be taking the slave out while hot and feel the movement off the thurst bearing and see if it is sticking. I have had it before where carbon and the grease make the bearing stick on its guide.