The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi there guys, have a 5.0 rover V8 in my landy 90 soft top - 300bhp currently (well 293 if im honest) - have a crossfire nitrous plate under my eddie 600 carb and ready for nitrous, BUT - just thought - is there a way of fitting forced induction - pref turbo - for less than a grand with the same results??? A grand - or slightly less then that is what i was going to spend with the wizzards of NOS - but is there a viable good forced inductio nalternative for that money - have good engine bay space- any thoughts ?? P.S - I know this has been asked before but does anybody know about blow through mods for edelbrock carbs???

Unless you find a bargain you wont get a forced induction kit for anywhere near a grand.

And you dont need to spend a grand on the rest of the nitrous kit either ??

If you already have a crossfire plate, does it have crossfires fitted??

Do you want a fixed hit nitrous kit or a progressive controlled kit?

How much nitrous do you want to use??

have two stainless bolts at the back of the crossfire plate. I dont think these are the crossfires - was thinking of a controller as want my engine to last, was thinking of 50-100 ish, but have no direct experience with NOS. I suppose its the turbo manifolds that are dear - still think I will go with NOS - do I need a controller???

DaviesDJ wrote:Hi there guys, have a 5.0 rover V8 in my landy 90 soft top - 300bhp currently (well 293 if im honest) - have a crossfire nitrous plate under my eddie 600 carb and ready for nitrous, BUT - just thought - is there a way of fitting forced induction - pref turbo - for less than a grand with the same results??? A grand - or slightly less then that is what i was going to spend with the wizzards of NOS - but is there a viable good forced inductio nalternative for that money - have good engine bay space- any thoughts ?? P.S - I know this has been asked before but does anybody know about blow through mods for edelbrock carbs???

A lot depends on your ability to fabricate and tune, and source bargains.

But anyone would be doing well if starting from scratch to have a fully working turbo install for less then £1k. Bloody well in fact.

Of course...it also depends what you want the power for ? Nitrous will give quick and easy gains, but it certainly does not last forever, and cost of refills will also add up.

DaviesDJ wrote:have two stainless bolts at the back of the crossfire plate. I dont think these are the crossfires - was thinking of a controller as want my engine to last, was thinking of 50-100 ish, but have no direct experience with NOS. I suppose its the turbo manifolds that are dear - still think I will go with NOS - do I need a controller???

Show a picture of this plate if you can. Showing all 4 sides ideally.

What manifold are you using with the carb??

DaviesDJ wrote:Was thinking perhaps could get away with a stright 50 shot??? without controller? Would I notice benefits from a controller?? Could add it later on??? What is the trigger and where does it normally go??

A lot depends on your engine and the drivetrain strength. On a 5 litre a 50 shot fixed hit wont feel like much of a kick in the back. But on the dyno it could make good numbers ??

If you want a quick cheap thrill on the road then nitrous is the cheap way forward with regards to the cost of the kit. But the gas isnt cheap in the long run if you want to stick a decent shot into the engine ?

To activate the nitrous for a fixed hit the best option is a simple microswitch on nthe throttle somewhere.

at only a 50 shot, a controller would be pointless.

Even at 100 shot I'd say a controller still isnt needed. ( Even though it would seem like a large power upgrade percentage wise over standard )

Over than then a progressive controller to ramp up power delivery could make sense.

Although a controller may make it more gas efficient ?

You normally have a switch to manually arm the system, and then another switch that operates at full throttle.

The replies are coming in before the questions again ??

mgbv8 wrote:The replies are coming in before the questions again ??

you must be in a different time zone !!

Was thinking perhaps could get away with a stright 50 shot??? without controller? Would I notice benefits from a controller?? Could add it later on??? What is the trigger and where does it normally go??

Am using a performer (edelbrock) manifold - R380 gearbox - was thinking 50-100 (max) - think its deffo gonna be NOS now

DaviesDJ wrote:Am using a performer (edelbrock) manifold - R380 gearbox - was thinking 50-100 (max) - think its deffo gonna be NOS now

I run a 4.6 that knocks out about 300 BHP and a Holley Powershot NOS system. NOS really is a good laugh but you still need to be quite careful. I got greedy and kept upping the NOS and fuel jets, it was great while the head gaskets lasted but in the end they failed. This was with around 100-115 shot. (ARP studs fitted) The carbon on the pistons seemed quite dusty, I suspect that there was some minor detonation.

I now run an 85 shot or there abouts, so far the lump has held together.

I should have fitted Cometic head gaskets in 96mm form due to the huge chamfer at the top of each bore but I only found them after I had fitted a normal set of Real Steel style comps...oh well next time!...

http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-fit ... l?cat=2684

Even now I still run 3 degrees ignition retard when the NOS is flowing but I might get away without doing this, its hard to say. I run an MSD system that has a retard feature. I also run a summit RPM Window switch so that the NOS can only flow when the revs are above 2700 and below 5800 RPM. (2700 is quite a low figure but the car is light and due to the long NOS pipe runs the hit is quite soft anyway, it takes a second or two before is kicks in). I also run a micro switch on the throttle pedal. (Not on the carb, it looks neater on the pedal)

Another thing to consider is the fuel pump capacity, my facet may have been OK but in the end I fitted an Edelbrock electric pump, its good for 600 BHP and does not need an external regulator.

I would have to question why you would want to run more in a landrover. the drive train is not likely to survive and neither would you lol

what is the spec of your 5.0L ?

Im running a top hat linseed 2 bolt main with arp studs at mains and cylinder heads. H404 cam, rhoads lifters, je rocker outrigger posts, stage 3 heads with 3 angle cut big valves (standard valve insert size) bullet guides etc. performer manifold and 600 carb, crossfire plate under already (while I was planning:-)) electric dizzy with rpi power amp. I want one of the quickest defenders, I built it from scratch in my spare time - really Only just running in. Fitting a AFR meter soon to properly net etc![/img]