The V8 Owners Forum -

Range Rover Thor 4.6 V8 60D type 2000>.

The Land Rover manual asks for Hylosil to fill the voids between jointing faces on the sump.
What is the Hylosil number as used originally?

Having removed the splash plate that the pick up goes through (to clean the sump) what is the blue thread lock used?

TIA.

Sure it wasn't Hylomar? That's the usual sealant Rover recommended.

From the Workshop Manual 'Range Rover 2000':

Sump Gasket upto 99MY:

Remove all traces of old sealant from mating faces of cylinder block and sump.

Clean mating surfaces with suitable solvent and apply a bead of Hylosil 101 or 106 to sump joint face as shown.


Sump Gasket from 99 MY:

RTV sealant in 5mm beads accross the cylinder block to front cover and cylinder block to rear main bearing joint. Apply a globule of RTV to cover to cover end of cruciform seal (see Ill..,)

Hi mgme.

Some info on the sealant

http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=75

And a possibility for the thread lock.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_ ... ue-242.htm

Regards Ged

The removed sealer was black (102).
66000 miles original sump gasket.

242 Blue Loctite in stock.

There is call to replace various 'o' rings is there a guide to sizes used?

5mm beads of sealant?? This will squish out everywhere...

Its a sump gasket!!

Just make sure the mating faces are really clean and dry.

Smear whatever sealant you want over the faces. I use Blue Hylomar, Right stuff gasket seal, plumb centre orange RTV etc etc.

In fact with Right Stuff you could do away with the cork gasket if you want as a 5mm bead of right stuff will make a good gasket on its own.

If you intend to use the Hylomar then smear it on the sump gasket face and set the gasket on the sump flange. Make sure the cork gasket is seated and in place re the bolt hole alignment. Give it 15 mins to tack off then smear more hylomar on top of the cork gasket and bolt it on.

But only bolt it on with light hand pressure on the socket so the gasket does not deform. Give it another hour or so and then nip it up a bit more.

I cant remember the torque figure for the sump gasket as I do it by eye and feel. If the gasket starts to bulge out in between the bolts you are too tight.
There is no pressure on this joint is there?? its just a light sealing joint that a lot of folk over tighten and ruin for some reason ??

Something I have always done with sump and rocker gaskets is evostick the gasket to the sump or cover--- not the engine, doing it this way secures the gasket and stops it squeezing out, Blue Hylomar a non setting sealer is very much preferred over silicon, which, if a lump of set silicon get around the filter and into the oil pump it will kill and engine instantly as it will stop the pump, I have the TeeShirt!!

ian.stewart wrote:Something I have always done with sump and rocker gaskets is evostick the gasket to the sump or cover--- not the engine, doing it this way secures the gasket and stops it squeezing out, Blue Hylomar a non setting sealer is very much preferred over silicon, which, if a lump of set silicon get around the filter and into the oil pump it will kill and engine instantly as it will stop the pump, I have the TeeShirt!!

I was going to mention the evostick trick but some folk find it quite odd for some reason Ian. I've had the same rocker gaskets on for 3 years now. Glued to the cover and just hylomar on the mating each time they go back on after engine work

The last two post's are great advice these methods work great silicone is a great product but you have to take care and not for me where sumps are concerned especially the RV8 .

SimpleSimon wrote:The last two post's are great advice these methods work great silicone is a great product but you have to take care and not for me where sumps are concerned especially the RV8 .

Yes we have learned from the master now known as 'the silicone kid'
Used far too much of the stuff and it clogged the oil pick up

Just a smear and dont overtighten bolts. I think 2 or 4 of the rear bolts need sealant on the threads also.

dbv8 wrote:

SimpleSimon wrote:The last two post's are great advice these methods work great silicone is a great product but you have to take care and not for me where sumps are concerned especially the RV8 .

Yes we have learned from the master now known as 'the silicone kid'
Used far too much of the stuff and it clogged the oil pick up

Just a smear and dont overtighten bolts. I think 2 or 4 of the rear bolts need sealant on the threads also.

Blocked the oil pickup ??
Guess he got a bit over enthusiastic did he Del ??
We have all made our own blunders over the years I'm sure ??

mgbv8 wrote:

dbv8 wrote:

SimpleSimon wrote:The last two post's are great advice these methods work great silicone is a great product but you have to take care and not for me where sumps are concerned especially the RV8 .

Yes we have learned from the master now known as 'the silicone kid'
Used far too much of the stuff and it clogged the oil pick up

Just a smear and dont overtighten bolts. I think 2 or 4 of the rear bolts need sealant on the threads also.

Blocked the oil pickup ??
Guess he got a bit over enthusiastic did he Del ??
We have all made our own blunders over the years I'm sure ??

Oh that's OK, he got it all down the intake
too people always ignore the no1 rule with silicone sealants little and grease/oil free faces otherwise it don't stick and just squeezes out the joint, I am sure most of you guys are well aware of this though