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Central heating boilers often have a SS heat exchanger these days.unstable load wrote:Depending on exactly what that is, you should keep it far away from the shiny bits as it will corrode stainless steel if it is this stuff.....
http://www.tergo.co.nz/Tech%20Data/HTML ... salts.html
Aaah, Houston, we could have a problem, over......DaveEFI wrote:Central heating boilers often have a SS heat exchanger these days.unstable load wrote:Depending on exactly what that is, you should keep it far away from the shiny bits as it will corrode stainless steel if it is this stuff.....
http://www.tergo.co.nz/Tech%20Data/HTML ... salts.html
And there I was thinking you were giving out yout patented fuel recipe for the slingshot!kiwicar wrote:Phosphoric acid and hot water nice! ! ! !
Best regards
Mike
PS tell me do you me do you mix equal parts sulphuric, hydrochloric and nitric acids, add glycerine, boil off the water and drink the resulting liquid to relieve high blood pressure? ? ? ? ?
Rust removal
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance (such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes).
It can be brushed or sprayed on.stevieturbo wrote:Is that a brush on or spray on stuff ?
At least it's certainly down to good clean metal before you paint anyway.
no pics of the gore 
It was gloves that caused the damagestevieturbo wrote:Looking good.
Those wire wheels can cause some serious damage. Ive been lucky a few times using them. I almost always wear gloves of some sort. Even light gloves will take the hit before your skin does and they have saved me a few times.
I just buy packs of 10 pairs of gloves so Ive always some lying about the garage somewhere, so no excuse not to put them on when using a grinder etc. Even if some of them almost go on fire from the sparks lol
