The V8 Owners Forum -

after weeks of tring different diodes ressistors etc i now have the rev counter working off the ecu

means i can keep an eye on the revs now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97UaSxY3RgI

and at last looks like i have sussed the sticking throttle,
it would stick at 1200-1500rpm once warm if you blip throttle would return to 900rpm,
so tonight left the car running after the 3rd fan cycle i turned it off and adjusted the centralling of the plates in the plenum bore when hot,
and all seem's good now

thev8kid wrote:and at last looks like i have sussed the sticking throttle,
it would stick at 1200-1500rpm once warm if you blip throttle would return to 900rpm,
so tonight left the car running after the 3rd fan cycle i turned it off and adjusted the centralling of the plates in the plenum bore when hot,
and all seem's good now

oh how f***** wrong i was
the weekend it stuck open again at 2k,
and to return to idle you would have to jab the pedal a few times,

so after using Ramons guide on setting up the TP (cheers for the link mate),
we tried every thing, when you thought it was cured it would stick again,

we gave up on the TP linkage(s)
and converted a 3.5 efi linkage instead,
the throttle is more possitive now, need to make the throttle arm a bit longer though to compensate and to give a better range on the pedal,
BUT it returns to idle,

(Ramon wont like this bit,)
we noticed the two springs on the throttle shafts (between the plenums)
were causing the middle linkages to twist and bind up,
so this has now gone and we have made a couple of brackets that locate on the two middle mechanisms and have a mini su (light spring) return spring back to a bracket on the center plenum bolt.
the linkages now run straight throught its throttle positions.

[quote="thev8kid"]after weeks of tring different diodes ressistors etc i now have the rev counter working off the ecu

means i can keep an eye on the revs now

Tone, which one did you use as I've been trying to get mine to work from the ECU for ages. At the mo I run the rev counter from the alternator and it's not the most accurate land rover part ever made...

jeff

Hi Jeff,
i used these off ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT
and wired as per this drawing mate,



if this is any use, PM me your address and i will pop two in the post mate as i bought 100 of them

ordered a complete set of stem seals today, (spares)

going to do the easy thing first and change seals,
would you think the two cylinders that are burning oil on over run would be inlet seals leaking?
or exhaust seal? or both?
i thought due to the vaccum the inlet ones.

Yes T will be the inlet ones.

ta M.

well battled home through the snow tonight to a couple of parcels sat waiting for me



one leak down tester and a set of stem seals.

Plus the essential can of Stella lubrication fluid

Kevin.

the other 3 empty tins are holding the lid up

thev8kid wrote:(Ramon wont like this bit,) we noticed the two springs on the throttle shafts (between the plenums) were causing the middle linkages to twist and bind up, so this has now gone and we have made a couple of brackets that locate on the two middle mechanisms and have a mini su (light spring) return spring back to a bracket on the centre plenum bolt. The linkages now run straight through its throttle positions.

Hello Tony. Moi! Dislike! Wot's to dislike? But fascinated as to WHY? Let me try and analyse from afar!

# Clearly the hang-up you described is temperature sensitive.

# I also recall that you may have had replacement shafts manufactured for your TP?

# Perchance, those shafts had a different thermal coefficient of expansion to the OE shafts and/or maybe likewise any replacement bearing inserts too, then its possible that binding described would occur under thermal cycling.

# Alternatively new shafts and bearings may have been manufactured to very fine tolerances too good for the task in hand.

# Alternatively the rear shaft has been twisted again by the opposing forces applied from the centre. viz:

# On my TP its possible for the OE centre springs to be set in two positions. The stronger position puts tremendous strain on the rear-most shaft.

# That extra load from both over-stretched OE springs is sufficient to twist and damage the rear shaft and possibly even the central adjuster brackets.

# On the OE throttle quadrant (now replaced??) the clamping mechanism at the boss is liable to wear making it impossible for the throttle assy to reseat the plates correctly first time without the throttle blip described.

Let me be clear tho', NONE of the above implies critique of the set-up. merely trying to analyse what might be happening either as individual items or in cahoots with other items.

Nearly all SD1 TP owners have idle speed hang-up issues, me either, from when I acquired my TP in 1993. Since eventually sorting it out during the following two years, I must have been extremely lucky over the long intervening period for it not to have gotten worse again.

# That, or alternatively, my throttle mechanism has responded favourably to the TP set-up process that you referred to,

PLUS

# diligent efforts to keep the intake areas free of breather gunk,

# clean out the idle and breather galleries frequently,

# oil the TP shafts and bearings with penetrating oil at the beginning and end of each summer season,

# ensure the throttle quadrant is tight on its shaft,

# ensure the primary throttle return spring connected to the throttle quadrant and the fuel pipes support bracket is correctly located,

# keep the centre springs on the lightest possible setting,

# never attempt to rotate the throttle plates from the centre brackets.

In conclusion it would be fair to say that

# at its best, the SD1 TP throttle mechanism had a marginal life expectancy.

# It suffers greatly from maladjustment and crud,

# As soon as the second/third generation of owners discontinued seeking regular dealership servicing, system neglect became rampant.

# Inevitably, owners tried modifications - such as centre pull - to try and overcome various problems.

# The bottom line being, that if/when a stable mechanical system can be established, then stick with it, because going backwards will be even more difficult than moving on.

Oh Yes! good Luck!

Right due to the engine over run smoke fault not cured,
we are going to have to remove the engine and replace the rings etc and give it a good check over,

We are planning on doing this over a weekend, (off the road just for a day in theory),

The way it will pan out is,
Saturday:
start early saturday morning remove engine and strip down check over and hope to get rebuilt ready for refit,
also remove steering rack and replace with new one,

Sunday:
early start again, finish off steering etc, refit engine run up, test and drive home,

If any one is free and would like to help i would be greatful as i think its going to be a bit tight for two of us,
I can't afford to pay you, but will pay for your dinner/tea etc for the day/ weekend,

wooohoooooooooooo
im going forced baby

im now the owner of a Paxton SN92 charger

good to hear, as they say theirs nothing like being blown rich