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Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:53 pm
by Coops
have had a good look over the ecu this evening trying to find faults,
and so far i can't,
the loom is plenty long enough, and labled up nicely with the labels half way up the loom so when you cut the loom to length you can still see what is what,
came complete with a disc with all the info thats on the ecu, along with owners manuals and tuning manuals on how to set the ecu up, which gets my vote,
Pity vems never did this :cry:
so far its got my vote,
will keep you all posted how the installation goes ( time to panic Phil :lol: )

Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:23 pm
by DaveEFI
As regards the loom, it's well worth drawing it all out with cable colours so that if you come to alter or fault find at a later date, you don't have to rely on memory, or labels that will fall off.

The reason I went for MegaSquirt is that it is generally open source. So very little if anything kept a secret for commercial reasons.

Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:03 am
by Cobratone
daxtojeiro wrote:
Cobratone wrote:Just for your info Coops, My large bore plenum 4.8 made 276bhp and with 50mm throttle bodies it made 302bhp. The tb's were too big for the engine really but they're now on my 383 sb Chevy 8)
Tony,
Out of interest, do you have the graphs for both, including the torque curve?
Phil
The tb ones are on my photobucket account "cobratone" showing the difference in power at 28, 30 and 32 degrees final advance. Can't find the pre tb graphs now, sorry :(

Also on there is a picture of the oildrive "plug" that I used which is different to what I've seen yours look like, are you using the dizzy bits in yours as a cam sensor for the sequential injection?

Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 11:03 am
by daxtojeiro
Coops wrote:have had a good look over the ecu this evening trying to find faults,
and so far i can't,
the loom is plenty long enough, and labled up nicely with the labels half way up the loom so when you cut the loom to length you can still see what is what,
came complete with a disc with all the info thats on the ecu, along with owners manuals and tuning manuals on how to set the ecu up, which gets my vote,
Pity vems never did this :cry:
so far its got my vote,
will keep you all posted how the installation goes ( time to panic Phil :lol: )
If you can't sleep theres also some video's to help you http://www.youtube.com/extraefi

Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 4:43 pm
by Coops
More goodies arrived today, this time from Triggerwheels.

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The new Techedge 2J2 wideband controller.

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And the new Techedge programable lambda/AFR gauge

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:38 pm
by Coops
Slowly getting there,

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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:11 am
by ian.stewart
Tony
I had all my loom labeled at each end and every junction, I kept my ECU out of the way by going thru the bulkhead. I used aircraft style connectors so the engine could be removed by undoing one plug, disturbing nothing on the engine, Labeling was easy if the loom was not hard if it was apart, I used lables, made and printed off the computer, attached to the wires with clear shrink tubing, I had my loom built and on the car for about 8 years without any degradation of the lables.
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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:22 am
by stevieturbo
clear heat shrink sounds good, didnt even know that was available !

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:59 am
by DaveEFI
The best type is adhesive lined but can be difficult to find. Last lot I got came from Canford Audio. But plain clear heatshrink is available on Ebay.
However, IMHO, you can't beat cable colours as these can be identified at any part of the loom.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:10 am
by stevieturbo
I tried to keep one colour each for 12v, ground, sensor grounds, 5v, sensor signals etc.
Crank/cam dedicated screened wiring....not that I'm using cam yet lol

But when you're only making a single loom, buying loads of different colours isnt always affordable.

No doubt colours have got mixed up somewhere.

But labelling and more labelling is always important for fault finding. I just used tape labels and trimmed them on each and every wire near the ecu. Leaving maybe 12" at the ecu bare strands for easy access if needed rather than with any outer braiding.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:16 pm
by ian.stewart
Steve, have a look on EBay, plenty in there,

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:07 pm
by DaveEFI
Most suppliers charge about 2X the price for cut cable over a single reel. Plus wastage, of course, since it's sold by the metre. Given what many spend on other things just for looks I'd say it's worth it.
Other way is to start out with a secondhand engine loom and modify that.
A Range Rover loom will be long enough for most applications.

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:32 pm
by Coops
Not really done much on the car, as its to cold in the garage :lol:
must get them oil fitted rads sorted.

but have done a little on the ecu, hope to get out there on sunday and do the engine bay side of the loom.

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:55 am
by Coops
Just an update shes a running 8)
a few teething problems to sort out, on my behalf, had a coil pack firing out of sink, should go A-B-C-D mine was firing A-B-D-C :oops: and i had two leads in the wrong coil pack, god knows how i did that,

had 1+6 firing 8+5 firing and 4+3 and 7+2
should be 1-6, 8-5, 4-7, 3-2 :oops: :oops: sorted that and it idles sweet with a pair of grips on the stepper pipe, need to sort the stepper out for some reason mine seems to be reveresed so maybe a cheap copy stepper i have here, but otherwise the car fired first click, idled well sweet once i leaned the table off, all in all so far leaps and bounds running better than the vems ecu, which still makes me think there was a problem with it,

more to follow and vid once i sort the idle out :lol:

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:09 pm
by stevieturbo
It's always a great step when an engine runs for the first time on a new setup.