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Hi what terminal is the W terminal top or bottom left. thanks.thev8kid wrote:Info and conversion supplied By Aide,
Ignition unit: QHL-XEI8.
Bosch 12v Coil (blau) Blue: 0221119027
Ok, lets establish that we have the correct Dizzy, this mod will NOT work with the disc type dizzy as it a rectified signal, meaning it sends ½ the signal to the amplification circuit and phases the other half of the signal 180' to ensure no crossfire is present, (don’t ask me how I know because I’ll be here forever), you need to ensure that the one you have has the spikey brown trigger like the pic, don’t worry if you have a box on the side of the dizzy as you’ll be chucking that as far as possible.
If this is what you have were in business, you need to remove the amplification box if you have one and lengthen the Orange and Purple wires to go somewhere near the coil.
Now you need a component as pictured, which is the new amplification circuit. This need to be mounted in a coolish environment, near the coil is ideal as they are generally mounted away from hot spots. This unit also needs to be earthed well by the metal backplate, so on the chassis is a good idea scraping away the paint behind it and applying the grease supplied with it.
Time to do some rewiring, you need to take the coil positive to the terminal marked ‘B’, in the pic it’s the red wire, then from the coil negative to the terminal marked ‘C’, that the yellow wire. The Purple wire from the dizzy to terminal ‘W’, and the Orange wire to the terminal marked ‘G’
Mow all that’s left is hook the tach trigger back to the negative side of the coil, and a 12v (NOT ballasted) to the coil, I prefer a Bosch BLAU coil, of Blue to you and me, you can get these from any Bosch dealer and they should know what you mean. If not my local motor factors do.
Now the warning, I stupidly pulled a lead off investigating a misfire (it turned out to be the cam lobe but pulled I did). The spark jumped at least an inch and made me soil myself, do not play with this system. If you need any advice then just ask.
Adie
Haha cheers, does it matter in that if it's wrong it'll blow something or will it just not run or run bad? Saying that it might not matter soon as I may be getting msChrisJC wrote:It does matter, but I don't know which is which!
Chris.
forgot to say it is running on LPG to put it another way if the no1 plug lead was about 20 past the hour on the dizzy cap with the old Lucas module it is now about 15 past the hour seams drive ok although it can take 2 or 3 temp to startlittlewarby wrote:I know this is a old post now but have fitted this to my landy it does run smoother however the timing is 15 to 20 degrees advance IS THIS RIGHT so much so that it's off the crank shaft scale
Update on this module,, after spoting one with heat sink and coil at a a car show had Vauxhall wrote on it I fitted it to my rover and had no problems for about 18 months until recently when tick over was very bad but at normal road speed 30-50 mph it was good turned out to be the old coil swoped it out for the proper Lucas carb v8 one now its great still got the original module and heat sink from Vauxhall working very well with the date 5/1987 be WARNED if your hands are near the plug wires or coil when the engine running you will gett a SHOCK!! The voltages must be massive compared to the original Lucas modulelittlewarby wrote:forgot to say it is running on LPG to put it another way if the no1 plug lead was about 20 past the hour on the dizzy cap with the old Lucas module it is now about 15 past the hour seams drive ok although it can take 2 or 3 temp to startlittlewarby wrote:I know this is a old post now but have fitted this to my landy it does run smoother however the timing is 15 to 20 degrees advance IS THIS RIGHT so much so that it's off the crank shaft scale
