The V8 Owners Forum -

Found this.
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/histor ... 711/page25

That's me in a van I built when I was about 18. I have been looking for some pics for years. Oh, and I am 55 now so many years ago....

Sorry link is to the page. Mine is the red van with flames and smoke, 2 small pics

Well, it's running and driving, but there appears to be a gearbox glitch - hope it's not too serious

Some pics:

In the sun




Headlining in








Fuel rail covers need a bit of tweaking to fit nicely
















PLUS - some action shots:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5G5mrK-yUY


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbmYLKcgWco


Pete

Nothing wrong with first gear !! coming on great

Still trying to get to the bottom of the fast idle when a gear is engaged. Disconnected the IAC connection (fast idle) and revs jumped from a steady 500 to around 1000. It didn't jump to almost 2000 as previously when drive selected, but it's pretty much undriveable like this as it wants to over power the brakes.
Brakes need looked at as it seems the rear is doing most of the work, despite the bias being toward the front on the willwood dual master set up. It may be that a different size master is needed for the front, or bigger brakes required (no servo).
There are no EFI live programmers up here at present, but one is in the offing (formerly Dastek) soon, so may take the car there rather than trailer it for an 800 mile round trip. This should sort out the PCM demanding higher revs when drive engaged.

Pete

Do you have EFIlive already to access your ecu ?

I'm sure Richard and others could steer you through what you need to check

I sent my PCM off to Dynotorque in Birmingham to get the vats removed, the EGR removed, and the gearbox set up to match my axle ratio and tyre size. I asked them to delete the rear O2 sensors, but they said they couldn't find that on the programme. The car started first time - not bad for sitting around for a few years, and idled sweetly at 500 rpm (too low according to those in the know) until drive engaged where it went to 2k. I've asked on LStech for assistance, but I think we talk a different language at times. However, from information from there, we discovered that the pcm wasn't connected to the gear linkeage in order to tell the engine it was in gear, so my builder fabbed up a switch to do this - in addition to the inhibitor switch. This switch made no difference to the problem. Only change has been disconnecting the IAC connector with the situation as previously posted.
I paid for a licence in order for dynotorque to access my pcm, but have no access to any EFI live tools.
The only codes (OBD 2)that the engine is throwing up aren't really related to my problem - PO 405 (EGR signal low),449 Evap vent signal low),452 (Evap system swich low), 480 and 481 - last 2 are fans which are switched manually.
I'm kind of at a loss now as the car is almost finished and it would be nice to try it out properly.
The engine also doesn't seem to rev up as crisply as I think it should, but no codes thrown.
Biggest problem is my location, hence me being quite pleased to find someone locally, but they won't have the experience of EFI live as yet, so I'll just wait a bit. Winter is nearly here, so it isn't too much of a problem just now.

Pete

The fact you have codes, could mean the engine is operating under a limp mode, which will mean strange things can happen.

So you need the problems rectified

For local EFILive support, you'll be better asking here. Far more people there using it on their own cars, plus Richard the EFILive dealer in the UK is a regular

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/foru ... &mid=27545

But regardless, you'll need to buy the EFILive hardware so you can access the ecu for making changes. That will apply regardless of where you take the car unless they already have the harware.
Think there is a guy on the forum selling theirs at the minute. Or speak to Richard, I think the older versions arent overly expensive now.

if you're retaining the factory ecu, then it makes sense to have some means of making tuning changes, and accessing fault codes and data properly.

Well, it seems to be working as it should now - no real idea why though, but Ross played around with the idle control valve by disconnecting and reconnecting, plus took it for a scary drive to see if the gears changed.
It's going out again on Sunday for another drive to sort out brake balance - fingers crossed we're nearly there - cheers Ross.
It's possibly been that the ECU is learning and recalibrating - here's hoping.

Pete

Presumably the engine is mounted solidly in the car as the steering column support is mounted directly to the engine - or am I missing something (highly likely, I admit )

Engine is solid mounted.

Pete

plastic orange wrote:Engine is solid mounted.

Pete

And I bet it still feels smooth.

Shakedown run today - a few Minor tweaks needed:

http://www.youtube.com/user/rmrresto?feature=watch

Pete

I drove it home the other day - 100 mile trip in the pissing rain, so it's needing a good clean now.
It drove really nicely, but I didn't go over 2k revs just in case of any mishaps . It's geared to do 36 mph per 1000 revs, so 70 was just under 2k.
Ride is surprisingly plush, plus engine noise is pretty subdued. I'll now get on and do some minor fettling to get it ready for next season. Big thanks go to Ross Morrison of RM Restorations in Bishopton for taking my stalled project on and giving me a driving car to take home

Pete

Are you not able to locate the filters so they are not drawing the hot air from behind the radiator?

I did think about that, but it looks good - we'll see if it affects performance.

Pete