The V8 Owners Forum -

Ian,

Good thought and no but you may just be able to see a rubber tube to the left of the two sensors in my earlier post. This is in fact a bleed tube that was attached to a standard (TVR?) bleed point. I added this tube and it has a tap in it too so I can easily bleed this part of the engine and indeed top it up as it is a highest point in the cooling system of the block.

I've only ever been able to add the tinest drop of coolant here so that is why I am confident there are no air pockets. I have another bleed point in my heater circuit as well as my rad. Jacking up the front of the car makes that the highest point in that section.

No stat could easily cause poor or incorrect water flow in the system, never a good step when you're already having problems.

(a bit late to the thread)
I had temperature weirdness in my Fury. Pootling around it would ramp up from 90ish to 110ish at which point I'd usually park up and let it all cool down. This was the temp reported by my MS. I fitted a pair of DS18B20 probes, one in the top hose, one in the bottom and set up a microcontroller to log to an SD card. Basically it was a huge nerd diversion Logging that showed that temperatures were actually normal.
I'm using an Offenhauser manifold and my CLT sensor is fitted into that by way of an adaptor. The sensor was not fully in the flow of the coolant and was somewhat shrouded. I suspect I was getting a bubble forming around the sensor and that is what I was measuring the temperature of. I butchered the sensor and the adapter together and got the sensor to poke better into the coolant flow and it now normally reads 85-88C.

Regards,
David

Must admit to thinking if it doesn't actually boil over, it's probably OK.

My stat was taken out temporarily to see if it increased the flow but probably has not made a difference.

Whilst my oil temp sender is in an adapter, both water ones are not and can see the point but answered it, I think, in last post.

Yes, it does not boil over and yes it is now probably OK but as usual I would like to know the actual temp as I want to take the car into very sunny European climates sometime and need to be confident it will be fine in a hour long traffic jam at 35 degrees sunny weather.

If I can just reduce these temps by 5 degrees then I will be happy.

I have been thinking about waterless water once things are stable. Anither subjet and has anyone tried using it?

Put something like this in the flow of water in your top hose https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DROK-0-56-DS ... Swax5Y20mb. You can independently test the calibration with ice/boiling water, and then you will know the true temperature of the water coming out of your engine. This will give you independent information about the true temperature of your coolant.

Other than there being no risk of the Evans boiling over and pishing out, I really cannot see any benefit from using it from an actual cooling perspective.

scudderfish wrote:Put something like this in the flow of water in your top hose https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DROK-0-56-DS ... Swax5Y20mb. You can independently test the calibration with ice/boiling water, and then you will know the true temperature of the water coming out of your engine. This will give you independent information about the true temperature of your coolant.

thanks. I did this to calibrate the ECU. I have a multi-meter that measures temp as well.

On Friday I did another test run this time on motorways and will post in a few days once I get time as it shows a different scenario. However as part of the testing I used temp gun and it verified the temp at the two senders within a degree

stevieturbo wrote:Other than there being no risk of the Evans boiling over and pishing out, I really cannot see any benefit from using it from an actual cooling perspective.

Isn't it flammable or something too?

OK, last week I decided to do another test and this time on a motorway. To get there I go on mainly dual carriageway around 50mph although I did stop for fuel.

To my slight surprise, at the start of the motorway section my calibrated ECU temp was showing 102.7 degrees being way above the earlier ‘A’ road test posted above that shows normal temp at 95. No idea why except this time I had turned off the cabin heater and still not having a bypass circuit (temporarily disconnected). Could the pretty small 6” x 6” heater without a fan going reduce temp by some 7 degrees? I find it hard to believe but can only try this test again although as car comes off the road on Tuesday for the winter, it may have to wait.

The chart below shows the temp settings …



You can clearly see four sections….

First part the start of the outbound motorway leg of about 4.5 miles. You can see the temp gradually increasing. You can see the rpm of the trip and the turnaround being a motorway junction with lights. Max temp just before return slip road as I was at the lights for about 20 seconds. Outbound speed 70 – 75mph, return speed 60mph and temp started to cool down.

I decided to do the trip again and the middle turnaround was a short section of downhill dual carriageway and a couple of roundabouts plus back up the hill to the slip road.

Second trip out again shows temp increasing and at same turnaround temp reached 110. You can see same return at 60mph and engine cooling.

The last spike was because I was held at the lights coming off the motorway but again for less than 20 seconds. Then final stage was again cooling down as I came away from motorway.

On this trip my indicated oil temperature showed just over 110 degrees whilst on ‘A’ road trip it showed 95 max.

Clearly a fast run (albeit just 10mph or so more) makes my engine hot.

Finally, at the end of the whole trip and at home I used the temp gun with the bonnet and nose cone off but with engine running (being as last ‘A’ road test at mid-way point.)

ECU temp showed 107, gun at sensor location showed 106.
Otter switch (two thirds along inlet hose towards rad) showed 97.
Inlet to rad showed circa 88 (vs 90 in previous test).
Outlet from rad showed 62 (vs circa 40 in previous test)
Either side of rad where fan does not cover showed circa 100 on front face of rad (vs 90 in previous test) and circa 60 in inside (engine side) of rad (and I did not take figures last time.)

I agree slight discrepancies of how can temp increase in rad but probably just the gun’s ability to read a finned surface.

What it does show is that with a 10 degree hotter engine the rad is not able to cool as much and consequently engine does not cool as much. It also shows that on a short ‘blast’ my engine runs, to my mind, too hot.

Finally, this time I traced the voltage and correcting my last figures the volts were a constant 12.6v with both fans running and my volt gauge appears to be accurate.

If I can do another test with heater valve open I will, otherwise winter project making an internal cowl will hopefully help a lot.

Interesting aside: 4.5 miles along a motorway = turnaround time at a roundabout.

Richard
I was thinking long and hard on this and kept coming up with the timing on your engine being out.
Both too advanced and too retarded causes excess heat.
It could be a factor in getting it to run cooler.

Having the cabin heater on or off will have a marked change in the temperature. I have electric fan heaters on the GT at 350 watts each and they are useless, so something that actually heats the air to desist the screen will be dissipating more than that value!

Also on the GT my rad is 12 by 24 inches 3 inch deep. Runs two high power 11 inch fans and it coped with 45 degrees ay Le Mans never got above an indicated 95 and only did that when I failed to hit the manual fan switch in traffic and the otter kicked in. But I am only runming3.9 let so probably less heat generation too.

Just a pity you cannot get more radiator area

Ian

Ian Anderson wrote:Richard
I was thinking long and hard on this and kept coming up with the timing on your engine being out.
Both too advanced and too retarded causes excess heat.
It could be a factor in getting it to run cooler.

Having the cabin heater on or off will have a marked change in the temperature. I have electric fan heaters on the GT at 350 watts each and they are useless, so something that actually heats the air to desist the screen will be dissipating more than that value!

Also on the GT my rad is 12 by 24 inches 3 inch deep. Runs two high power 11 inch fans and it coped with 45 degrees ay Le Mans never got above an indicated 95 and only did that when I failed to hit the manual fan switch in traffic and the otter kicked in. But I am only runming3.9 let so probably less heat generation too.

Just a pity you cannot get more radiator area

Ian

Good point on timing and it could be. However it was taken (twice) to Dale's rolling road at Telford who set it up. Never touched since then.

My heater is buried under the dash and no means of air to flow through the unit without a fan on. I never put it on - guess I should have tried it. I cannot believe the heater with no air flow can cool the engine down that much. It is only a 6 x 6 hetaer.

I cannot fit in a larger radiator which is 12" x about 20" and 70mm thick so more or less your size. Yes, the round fan does not cover the whole width as per photos above. I really think an internal cowling will cool things down. I can always remove it if it does not make a difference.

I took the opportunity yesterday as last day on the road to re-run the motorway test but this time with the cabin heater control valve turned on. Other than this, the same test showed …



Blue line shows start of motorway run. Temp at the start was 93.8 so pretty much normal A road temperature (no idea why it was so hot at start of the previous test run)

As you can see, the first outbound leg where I was running at over 80mph shows temp climbing to 102 just before returning. The oil had reached about 105 (indicated).

Return leg was again at 55 – 60mph to cool things down. It did but only marginally of less than 1 degree.

Turned around to repeat the test but this time I turned my cabin heater fan to max. First leg speed slightly less at 70+ mph. This time temp climbed to 105.

Again return leg was at 55-60mph and it cooled down to 103 but increased at traffic lights before dropping right down to 95 on the way home on A roads.

Conclusion? Cabin heater made some difference of possibly 5 degrees but still way too hot in my opinion as I cannot really travel on motorways at 70 mph. Not sure the cabin fan made any difference. However winter project is still to make an internal cowl.

Be interesting to rig up some form of airspeed device to measure air flow through the rad at speed. And to look at a similar car which doesn't have problems.