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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:54 am
by lollorock
meanwhile, a doubt:
there is a MIL lamp in the dashboard?

(RRC MY1990)
why is it not turned on in the car? and why is it on in rover gauge?
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:37 pm
by lollorock
Hi,
today I have changed the TPS on my Range.
On rover gauge, MIL is off and i have no errors
But the problem of power is still here
what i have to do?

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:53 pm
by ChrisJC
Keep looking. Clearly you have more than one fault!
Chris.
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:58 pm
by lollorock
Ok
just to do it, i will check again the ignition timing

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:35 pm
by lollorock
Hi,
I have a G4 halogen lamp like this:

(12V 10W)
is it ok to build a noid lamp?
thank you
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:27 pm
by DaveEFI
I'd say not. It will take a lot of current to drive it, and may damage the injector driver. A small low current LED would be better. Also, a filament bulb won't show something flashing at speed like an injector
For the normal small LED you'll need a series 1000 ohm resistor. It will then draw about 0.01amp at 12v rather than the near 1 amp of your 10 watt bulb.
LEDs are polarity sensitive so need to be connected the correct way round.
Cathode is negative.
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:22 pm
by lollorock
Ok, i will use a led
meanwhile, Meanwhile, the main relay can cause problems if it is damaged or not working properly?
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:46 pm
by DaveEFI
I'm not that familiar with your injection, but on some Lucas injection the main relay is an oddball - it is a 5 pin with two outputs. Fit the common SPDT type and you have a problem. So I'd certainly make sure it is the correct one.
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:01 am
by lollorock
since i have the range i never touched this relè. It can be the original or not, that's why i have asked for problem on it
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:51 am
by DaveEFI
Relay contacts can be dirty (as can the terminals) - check the voltage drop across them with it in circuit.
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:30 pm
by lollorock
Hi everyone,
today I have made others test
First of all, my hand-made noid lamp (with halogen) doesn't work properly...or i have no injectors that works
For second, on Rover Gauge the MIL now is ON, but i have no errors
relays looks good
next step is use a led to build another noid lamp, then i will check again fuel pressure regulator...other ideas?
thank you lot

Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:28 am
by lollorock
I just did a little experiment to see if the fuel pressure regulator was good:
I disconnected the fuel line after the filter and I did run the pump with rover gauge to see how the fuel flows.
Next, i have disconnected the fuel line after the fuel pressure regulator and i did run the pump again and I noticed that the flow is slower.
So i think the FPR is ok...right?
anyway, the MIL is always on but i still have no errors

Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:53 am
by DaveEFI
My advice is not to rely on computer diagnostics on a system this old and use traditional testing methods.
Which for things like the fuel pressure involves checking it with a pressure gauge. Pretty well everything else can be checked with a decent DVM. One with a dwell reading will also show injector opening duration.
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 11:07 am
by lollorock
I agree, but if you remember the first post ... I've checked or replaced everything I could. And the car continues to go wrong. If the noid test will say that the wiring is, I have also finished all the tests that you have suggested to me
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:33 pm
by DaveEFI
What do you expect the 'noid test' to show you?