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Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:55 pm
by Coops
seight wrote:
He's got you going now Tony!
It was so easy.
Mike


Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:11 pm
by CastleMGBV8
Tony,
I nearly suggested the same but thought you'd have it in bits until next year
Lots of work to fit Chevy pistons, alright if your starting from scratch as I did, but still expensive.
kevin.
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:17 pm
by Coops
bugger
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:30 pm
by ian.stewart
Tony, these are the pistons I am using, with 4.6 rods the comp is around 11.1, and 4.0 rods its around 13.9,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT
They are not handed, so you can guess they are going to be slappy, and the Rods need to be bushed 22 to 24mm
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:36 pm
by Coops
Ta Ian,
will have to wait though as spent enough last/this year and done nowt really,
once money comes available again will look into these, cheers mate.
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:15 pm
by Rossco
There are plenty of Chevy piston and rod combos that will do the job.
Rather than bush Rover rods use small journal Chevy rods and you then have the choice of all the low price after-market H and I beam rods......good for 700bhp and more.
All you need to do is have the width of the big ends reduced. Off the top of my head it's 50 thou each side then have the chamfer reground. Here's an example
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product. ... CtgID=8183
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:24 pm
by ian.stewart
I havent been able to find a Chev combo to do this without machinng the crank pins down about 0.100", works on the small journal cranks
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:04 am
by kiwicar
The 305 chevy pistons are 3.736" bore. . . so .36" overbore, chevy rods need the sides machined as said but there is a wide choice of rods and as Ian said you need to turn down the big ends on the crank .1", if off set ground that is an extra 1.25 mm stroke fiddly but there are a wider choice of forged pistons at sensible prices.
Mike
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:04 pm
by Coops
Had a call from Ray today,
the new rods and pins dont seem to be that tight a fit when he put them in the press,
he is going to do a test next week to see how much pressure moves them,
God please dont say these are fooked as well
Otherwise it looks like i may end up having the engine back in the next week or more,

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:13 pm
by DEVONMAN
thev8kid wrote:Had a call from Ray today,
the new rods and pins dont seem to be that tight a fit when he put them in the press,
he is going to do a test next week to see how much pressure moves them,
God please dont say these are fooked as well
Otherwise it looks like i may end up having the engine back in the next week or more,

Tony,
You can't be that unlucky twice.
Maybe it's a 1st April wind up.
Cheers Denis
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:18 pm
by Coops
Hi Denis,
hope it is a wind up mate.
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:25 am
by Coops
ian.stewart wrote:Tony, these are the pistons I am using, with 4.6 rods the comp is around 11.1, and 4.0 rods its around 13.9,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT
They are not handed, so you can guess they are going to be slappy, and the Rods need to be bushed 22 to 24mm
Im still thinking about this route if the pins and rods aint 100% i have at v8 d now,
do they do a version of this forged piston with valve reliefs???
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:52 pm
by ian.stewart
As far as I am aware No, got to remember the Rover Valves sit low in the bore, so Flat tops will need custom cutouts,
Those other pistons I have could help you out,
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 5:26 pm
by Ian Anderson
Can you not machine in a circlip groove?
They'll never move then
Or teflon button ends on the gudgon pins
Ian
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:42 am
by Coops
Just got off the phone with Ray,
looks like the new rods and pins are ok, PHEW!!!!
should have fingers crossed it all back here end next week,
block top hatted,
and bottom end all lightened and balanced
Looks like im gona need them parts from RS soon Pel
