The V8 Owners Forum -

I got my second B6 S4 header cleaned up today. Then gave both of them a polish with a proprietary metal polish. My favourite brand has always been Autosol, and was my weapon of choice here.





















B6 S4 headers, de-cat downpipes and B5 S4 cat-back exhaust:

Update: 16th September, 2015.

My clutch turned up today, together with a pair of exhaust manifold gadgets.

The beauty of Audi selling most current model clutches as individual parts rather than as kits, is you can pretty much mix and match. I went with a B5 RS4 clutch pressure plate, but opted for a friction disc for the B6 3.0 TDI Quattro, though it is listed for some other models. The TDI friction disc is marginally thicker than a stock B5 RS4 one, and more heavy duty.

The throw-out bearing will be with me tomorrow at some point.

Pictures!





With single-mass V8 flywheel. I'll measure the stack height once I purchase a set of bolts from Audi, and it's all bolted together:







The standard flywheel bolts from the A8 are obviously too long, so I need to get a new set. The ones for my 30V flywheel will work, but given the torque that needs to be applied when tightening these bolts, I would feel more comfortable knowing they were new, and unlikely to let go at 7000rpm.

Gaskets:

My low-coolant level warning came up on my DIS this morning. A check showed the coolant was indeed low, and I topped it up.

On my return from work, I noticed a dripping underneath the engine area. Too far forward for it to be the climate control drain, or water pump. Some of you guys may have guessed it - a bust radiator. After 15 years of service, it finally sprung a leak from the lower left-hand end tank.

One thing is certain - I'm NOT pulling the bumper to replace it with an aluminium one. Looks like my V8 swap will happen much sooner than I originally planned.

I bolted my B5 RS4 clutch assembly to my bespoke V8 40V single-mass flywheel, so I could measure the stack height. Very comparable with that of my DTM car, which will be running a different set-up, an OEM European D2 S8 flywheel and clutch.

D2 S8 flywheel and clutch stack height, 85.0mm:





Bespoke V8 40V flywheel and B5 RS4 clutch stack height, 85.5mm:

Update: 24th September, 2015.

I originally planned to retain my original 30V radiator, but it sprung a leak a few days ago. It's sealed for now, but do I truly want to cool a big V8 motor with a 15-year-old radiator?

I had previously purchased a B5 aluminium radiator for my 32V S8 motor, which was installed in my old 1995 B5 2.6 V6 12V Quattro, but that was adapted to that engine.

This time, with my 40V D3 BFM engine going into an '00 B5 2.8 30V Quattro, I intend to keep the coolant hoses in their stock positions, on the right-hand side. So I ended up pulling the trigger on another B5 aluminium radiator. Unfortunately, there's no B5 that has both upper and lower coolant hoses on the right.

I could flip the radiator, but then that messes up the lower mountings, as well as the integral brackets for the air conditioner condenser. I could also run aluminium radiators for the VW Golf MK5, or probably a B6 S4, but again, these solutions are pretty gash. I've gone for a different, and dare I say cleaner look.

I'm getting the radiator coolant inlet and outlet pipes cut off, and transferred to the right-hand end tank. The holes left will then have aluminium discs welded in place. This arrangement will keep the original coolant hoses of the D3 40V stock, for a more OEM look.

I should have the radiator with me sometime next week.

Update: 26th September, 2015.

A big box arrived today, via DHL:



Containing my aluminium radiator. Very well packaged, it's actually a branded item, FENIX. The build quality is streets ahead of the one I purchased for my 32V, and is reflected in the price, 4 times more expensive. The one I purchased previously is a Chinese-made item.

As I previously posted, I am getting the inlet / outlet connections moved to the right hand side, to match the D3 V8 40V hoses. The plan was to have the original connections cut off, circular aluminium discs welded over the redundant holes, then get the stubs welded into the right hand end tank.

Looking closely at the radiator, I have decided to just cut down the inlet and outlet connectors, leaving a generous stub. My reasoning is simple - aluminium welds are fairly substantial, so going with a flush cut may not be the best solution. This means the stubs may be too short to install on the opposite end tank. I opted to order a new pair of aluminium inlet and outlet connectors, in the same size. These will be with me sometime next week.

Radiator pictures. The radiator manufacturer actually supplied a catalogue, listing their other products. They also produce heater cores, intercoolers, condensers and lil coolers:

















32mm aluminium inlet and outlet connectors:

Looks complicated

My daily driver is a B6 S4 and changing the exhausts and de-catting the downpipes was enough for me - not much fun to work on

Keep the pics coming

Thanks Mark!

B6 S4, hmmm. I had a B6 S4 Convertible. First thing I did was pull the engine, and replace those nasty chains and tensioners. Not too bad a job, and definitely worth doing.

Hello bud,

Looking good, nice to see the work continuing, will be nice to hear it running..

I have also got a b6 s4, mines a avant, still got my BMW, now going to biuld a 5.0ltr for it....

Steve.

Update: 29th September, 2015.

My starter motor turned up today, along with my flywheel bolts and a B5 A4 I4 front crossmember.

Anyone who has tried mating a C5 RS6 V8 Biturbo to an 01E will know it's not a bolt-on job. Only 4 bolts from the upper block will mate to the corresponding bolt holes on an 01E, the automatic flexiplate is much larger than any flywheel that will fit within the confines of any Audi manual gearbox. And of course, the RS6 starter motor will not work with the correct size flywheel.

So complications is an understatement.

There is the chunky adapter option, and a custom starter motor, options that don't interest me in the slightest.

I now have a factory starter motor that fits the D3 V8 / C5 RS6 block. Is the starter motor modified? No. Is the block machined to accept the starter motor, and extra holes drilled to match? Yes. Is this safe? Absolutely.

I shall bolt the flywheel and clutch to the engine over the weekend, do the last bits and pieces, then mate the motor to my built 01E.

Update: 31st October, 2015.

I pulled the D3 A8 wiring harness of my V8 motor this arvo.

It is possible to use the D3 harness in a B5, but it'll take a lot of work. Getting a VSS signal into the ECU is just one of the obstacles to overcome.

I purchased a 2001 C5 S6 engine harness, which I am currently splicing to the stock D3 engine harness. I'm still working on bank 1, soldering and heat shrinking. I will then complete the lot with the proper black cloth tape, keeping the OEM look.

Audi A8 D3 4.2 V8 40V engine harness:



Audi S6 C5 4.2 V8 40V engine harness:



A8 D3 4.2 V8 40V. Hybrid engine harness build in progress:





Tomorrow I should have the hybrid wiring harness all buttoned up, then I can torque down the flywheel, fit the clutch and bolt the 01E transmission to the motor.

Update: 14th November, 2015.

I finally completed my hybrid Motronic ME7.1.1 wiring harness. Actually it had been completed for a while, I just had to fit it to the BFM V8 motor. It should now at least plug into my 2000 B5 2.8 Quattro. The original BFM harness would not.

I have also fitted the B6 S4 (BBK) exhaust headers, as well as one of the aluminium billet Motorsport engine mounts. Time allowing, I should install the clutch, and bolt the BFM V8 to the 01E 6-speed manual.

Some pictures:

Flywheel and clutch installed, and torqued to spec.

Sheesh! You better be pretty healthy, with a good dose of spinach before installing the flywheel. The 180 degree angle tightening you need to apply AFTER the initial torque sequence is really taxing, even if it's done in 2 steps of 90 degrees. At one point, I thought I was gonna bust the flywheel bolts.

Good reason to ALWAYS use new bolts.

So I put my 2.8 V6 30V up for sale, whilst it was still in the car (still is). 4 days later, it sold, for more than I paid for my car.

The engine is destined for a Ferrari Dino kit car, with an air cooled Volkswagen Beetle chassis, designed to accept a mid-mounted Audi V6 30V. Oddly, it's a girl's project, she purchased the engine and harness, she'll be running the standard Motronic ME7.1. Now, that's a project I'll be following.

Of course, this now means I've got to pull the motor and trans, so this weekend, I'll be putting my Pelican Blue B5 into my garage, and getting some work done. It's been a while since I drove a B5 V8, I can't wait to complete this swap, and turn the key for the first time.

Update: 21st November, 2015.

I backed my Pelican Blue B5 Quattro 2.8 30V into my garage, for the last time under V6 power. I had previously driven her to my local Audi dealership, to get the aircon gas evacuated from the system. I could possibly have worked round the condenser and compressor when pulling the engine out, but I like freedom to move around, without the risk of busting things up.

I did have a late start, as I was at work, albeit it half day. I did not get to start until 15:40 hrs.

The car is on 4 jack stands, though the wheels are all still in place. Motronic harness disconnected from plenum chamber (5 body plugs), which I compared with the 5 plugs on my hybrid wiring harness. With the exception of about 5 wires, I've gotten the pin-outs pretty much the same.

I had a battle with the spring clips on the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper one was particularly crusty, and I mean real nasty, with the clip coming off in 3 parts. I'm glad I opted to run an aluminium radiator.

So for tomorrow, I'll just need to lower the front subframe, unbolt the motor mounts, downpipes, gear selector box, prop and driveshafts, unbolt the transmission mounts, the engine earth strap etc. I haven't looked closely at the downpipe nuts, but if they present any problems due to corrosion, I'll attack the downpipes with my angle grinder. I'm not wasting too much time on those bitches.

Like with my previous B5 V8 swaps, the emphasis is on an OEM+ look, meaning no induction kit. I will be using the stock D3 A3 airbox and ducting.

High resolution pictures will follow tomorrow.