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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:15 pm
by topcatcustom
stagcar wrote:
why cant they just use bolts like every other fly wheel i have taken of still that's progress for you.
It wouldn't matter if the previous owner used the right size key!
Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:23 pm
by stagcar
topcatproduction wrote:stagcar wrote:
why cant they just use bolts like every other fly wheel i have taken of still that's progress for you.
It wouldn't matter if the previous owner used the right size key!
Your not wrong there tc still I am to blame for screwing up one of them and my key was a very tight if not hammer fit. I think there just made of rubbish
Cheers
Derek
Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:24 pm
by bigaldart
Just done this spacer routine, same trouble, correct key and they just round as soon as you look at them, drilled the heads off and the remainder screws out with your fingers, Jim in Ireland does a great price on genuine replacement socket head screws, will ship for next day, give him a call. Really nice guy.
Alan
Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:54 pm
by stagcar
bigaldart wrote:Just done this spacer routine, same trouble, correct key and they just round as soon as you look at them, drilled the heads off and the remainder screws out with your fingers, Jim in Ireland does a great price on genuine replacement socket head screws, will ship for next day, give him a call. Really nice guy.
Alan
Thanks Alan
I have been having a go at them tonight I need to cone back with some good quality drills the one I have are rubbish and went blunt sin no time
I will win this battle
Thanks
Derek
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 12:06 pm
by stagcar
Hi all,
Strange thing i have just pulled the pistons out and all the rings look to be in one bit.
The oil rings seems to be stuck in the grove and will not move this seems to be the case for all the pistons tho
So i have no idea what has damaged the bore's.
I now have a good ish set of drills so i am going to attack the crank spacer this week end
Also whats the best way to pull the little oil galery plugs out?
Cheers
Derek
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:03 pm
by topcatcustom
Unscrew the 2 threaded ones (can be bloody tight), then you can get a rod through to knock the ones at the other end out. Have you found oversized pistons yet for when you have it bored?
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:33 pm
by stagcar
topcatproduction wrote:Unscrew the 2 threaded ones (can be bloody tight), then you can get a rod through to knock the ones at the other end out. Have you found oversized pistons yet for when you have it bored?
Nice one TC that will make short work of them. i dident think of that..
As for the pistons i was going to get a set from realsteel cost about £135 for the plus 20tho 9.35 CR
I was also looking at stroker kits but there out of my price range at the moment TBH
Thanks again
Derek
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 3:19 pm
by topcatcustom
Forget the stroker kit, keep it simple. When you start using different crank, rods and pistons etc you will have loads of checking and machining to do to get them all to fit and work properly, plus take my word for it- you can have PLENTY of fun with 4000cc's of blown V8! Simple, cheap and cheerful is the way to go

Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 4:47 pm
by stagcar
topcatproduction wrote:Forget the stroker kit, keep it simple. When you start using different crank, rods and pistons etc you will have loads of checking and machining to do to get them all to fit and work properly, plus take my word for it- you can have PLENTY of fun with 4000cc's of blown V8! Simple, cheap and cheerful is the way to go

Your not wrong TC fun at the end of the day is the name of the game.
And cheep and cherfull is also nice.
It will be good to have what will be an as good as new engine aswell I think most of the v8 stuff I have ha in the past has been well worn.
Cheers
Derek
Have a look at the state of this
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:12 pm
by stagcar
Hi all
Just finaly got the engine back +20 and honed and it looks nice
so i started to pull some parts of the old 3.5 that had lack of power and was smokey and found it has been painted on the inside
Whats more the oil pump had red paint flecks in it and when you turn the old engine by hand it squeeks

so it looks like the end of the road for this old goat..
any way for you amusement here are some pics of the inside paint
As you can see its not a bit of over spray and its even on the valve springs....
it looks well worn looking at the state of the timing chain
any way when i finaly get the engine out i will start the 3.9 asembely
Many thanks
Derek

Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:16 am
by unstable load
Looks like a misguided attempt at smooting the insides to get better oil drain down. I have heard of powdercoating the valley area before, but he was a bit off track there, I reckon.
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:41 pm
by stagcar
Hi All,
I am looking for a good engine assembly grease i have used lubiplate 105 before but can seem to get it any where
Any ideas? what to you guy's use?
I wanted to use grease becuse the engine may well sit around for a few months before being run.
Thanks
Derek
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:30 pm
by unstable load
Stupid question number 2 :)
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:22 am
by stagcar
Hi thanks for the advise on the grease
My next question is about ARP studs
I am using arp studs on the mains and i am not sure if i should use thred lock on them or not?
Many thanks
Derek
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:30 am
by kiwicar
Hi
clean the washers, nuts and studs, lubricate lightly with the correct thread lubricant, same with the threads on the studs, do to the correct torque settings in 3 stages, finger tight, about 1/2 finished torque setting final setting clean off any thread lube that gets squeezed out with a clean dry cloth.
Best regards
Mike