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Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 7:44 pm
by mgbv8
Damn!!!

I didnt spot the sealing ring on the gasket mark??

Blinded by the idea of getting it lashed up eh :(

Will someone fit a single top hat liner. Or do these guys only fit a full set??

Tricky!!
I need a spare 4.6 block to use while I save up mate. What you got knocking around??

Wanna see how your 5.2 does with an auto :lol:

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 7:58 pm
by ian.stewart
Pel, as its a dedicated drag car, what about using blockfil, m sure there is a high temp devcon that may well fix the damage

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:53 pm
by katanaman
the highest temp I can find on the Devcon site is the ceramic wear guard which is 450F. I don't think that will be enough at the flame front specially as it will be a bit of an insulator as well but could be wrong. It would be a total sod to machine level as well since its designed to be highly abrasion resistant. The Aluminium putty is only good for 250F along with all the other metal putties I can see. It could be welded and machined back but as said before you will need to get the liner out of there so if your dropping the liner your as well to fit a top hat anyway.

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:00 pm
by Eliot
replace or repair the block properly - you cant glue that thing.

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:29 pm
by gelmonkey
Perry
I do think that you would be pushing your luck with trying to fill that and I have to go with what the other guys are saying and get another block.
I can ask questions regarding very high temp epoxys if you want but feel that you would always be wondering when it was going to let go if you epoxied it.
cheers
P

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:53 am
by mgbv8
I was thinking of this ally brazing rod I have. Melting point is 380C ??

Alternative plan now in action. I'll have to aim for the July event instead. As there are a few more pays day before then and I'm on holiday at Easter :(

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:39 am
by mgbv8
It doesnt look so bad when you look from this angle :)


Image

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:00 pm
by SuperV8
Chesmans engineering in coventry will do 1 top hat liner. Althought the price isn't the total devided by 8 due to all the setting up.

Tom.

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:25 pm
by Eliot
mgbv8 wrote:I was thinking of this ally brazing rod I have. Melting point is 380C ??
:roll: think i prefered it when you were talking about gluing it...
Get the block fixed properly or replaced.
Can you not score a cheap 3.9 block to tie you over for now?

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:46 pm
by mgbv8
I'm keeping an eye out for anything at the moment Eliot.

I might as well just aim for July as the next day out at the Retro Show.

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:57 pm
by DaveEFI
kiwicar wrote:Hi Perry
try asking Gelmonkey about epoxy resins, the stuff he got me is excellent for filling and sticks like the proverbial to a blanket, he can probably get a high temperature resin/ hardner combination that would last well, then you just add ally powder until you get the consistancy you want I think you will need a top hat liner to get it to seal properly, so it seals onto the liner, not the block, having said that I think a replacment block will be simpler in the long run.
Best regards
Mike
Rover used to recommend Belzona - a metal loaded two part filler. Used it with success on a P5B with block damage many years ago - but doubt it would stand up to a race engine.

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 5:54 pm
by mgbv8
Ian has now got me thinking about running the engine dry for 1/4 mile sprints?

I've seen several Rover V8's in various cars doing this?
Another thought to throw in the pot for the future maybe?

Perry

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 6:04 pm
by poo slinger
i got a 3.9 block if its handy, i'm in south lincolnshire, block is in a place called long sutton. also got crank, rods and pistons if handy.

pm me if needed

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:26 pm
by bigaldart
Belzona is terrific stuff, its the only product ZF recommend to repair their commercial gearboxes. But I cannot remember anything about it being better at high temperatures than any other epoxy. Believe me I would have looked. Being H&S manager meant I read all the spec sheets and data sheets. Someone must have a block for you. We never torched one to the outside, it was always into the vee for us. Have you any fretting evidence beneath the head fastener washers? Any fretting there and it was trying to lift the head. We had it before when using stock type fasteners, using the hardened and ground washers real steel sell cured it, but we went to studs soon after as we wanted more power. if you have replaced any washers you may have one thats not flat or parallel, reduces torque and lets the head lift under load.

Alan

Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:43 pm
by mgbv8
Alan!
The heads have been locked down with ARP studs for ages now. I gave up on those Rover bolts yonks ago.

Poo Slinger!
How much for the block??
Cheap is good. Free is better :lol:

I'm in a world of confusion now to be honest. Dont know which way to go at the mo :(