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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:35 pm
by roofman
when i swapped my 4.6 for a 3.5 (fuel costs) i had a small intermitent knock and found it was the sump pan hitting the front crank web--the gap is very small at the front and iff the motor has been knocked it can just be enough to foul the crank. hth

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:07 pm
by landkeeper
ok i'm finally getting around to doing something with this mystry engine
as it's running a big holley carb on an edelbrock manifold that really wouldn't suit for what i want it for and i have a single webber that i could fit that came of a 3.5
i'd really like to know what it is
is the only way to determine what size the engine is too take off the heads and have a look see
second question what would the holley and manifold be worth to sell it's in good condition although untested by me it was owned and driven by a guy i know and trust before he took it out to fit an oil burner

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:19 am
by ChrisJC
The engine number should allow you to determine engine size. However, you can rebuild the internals to give just about any size by re-boring, new liners, different crank etc, so if you suspect the engine has been modified, then yes you need to look inside.

I think I'd remove the sump to be honest and measure the bore and stroke that way.

Chris.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:31 pm
by landkeeper
well this might turn into a pic heavy thread now as i went investigating the engine yesterday and got a horrible suprise :shock: but used the camera along the way
the lad i bought it from took it out of his land rover and told me he had it well covered and protected from the rain
when he delivered it i put in straight into dry storage and there it has remained for about 6mnths now
anyway before i took off the sump to see what was what i tried to turn it over with the crank bolt i could go from 10 to 2 and that was it anyway to cut a long story short it somehow got left with a couple of cups of water in the rear offside cylinder and also some in the one next to it and its done alot of damage to the bore probably terminal :cry:
so i decided i'd strip it competely :D
so heads are off :)
sump is off :)
waterpump and front housing too :)
camshaft is out :)
pistons and con rods are out and the bolts holding the crankshaft are out :) but how do i get the crank shaft out of the block :( there are 5 metal blocks that had two bolts in each that would appear to hold the crankshaft in place(main bearings) how do these come out as they seem very tight and i don't want to damage anything
i have lots of pictures if i can work out how to post them

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:46 pm
by Pocket rocket
Not sure if it's the right procedure but I used a wooden drift and a mallet to knock the tight main bearing caps until they can be moved by hand. then it was just a case of wiggling them until they eventually come out.

They are designed to be a tight fit

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:12 pm
by landkeeper
thanks for that i'll give it a go tomorrow , i'm gutted to say the least as i had real plans for this , it is actually a 4.6 well thats whats on the crankshaft and it would have been real fun in the little 80" series one lookalike i was intending it for
it had been built with loving care each con rod was punched with a number of dots to id it and the inside of the valley was like new when i opened it up
i'll just salvage as much as possible and keep my eyes open for another block and maybe rebulid it one day
or would it be worth getting a new liner or two pressed in

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:33 pm
by CastleMGBV8
Have you removed the cross bolts for the main bearing caps, these are on the outside of the block on either side above the sump mating area.

kevin.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:47 pm
by landkeeper
no but now you say that i know what you mean i'll :oops:

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:31 am
by CastleMGBV8
To post pictures you need to host them on photobucket or similar.

If the effected cylinders are 6 + 8 I would suspect cracking behind the liners which has allowed coolant to escape from the top and is most common on the 4.0 and 4.6 engines.

I would have the block pressure tested and you could possibly get away with just having the two effected cylinders top Hat Linered as a cheap but effective fix.

Where are you based?

Kevin.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:38 am
by landkeeper
im in ireland so i'll have to do a bit of research and see can i find someone who knows there stuff here, i was talking to a guy yesterday from v8 tuners who was very very helpfull he recomended a guy called jim robinson in northern ireland .
the damage has been caused by water actually being left in the bore i think from rain getting in or similar after it was removed from the l/r it was in , there was nearly too much for it to have come anyother way
but yes it may be easier and in the long term a better option to get the affected liner/liners replaced

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:32 am
by CastleMGBV8
I though you were,

In that casr give Jim at JRV8 a call he's a great guy and knows Rover V8's inside out and he's very reasonable on prices.


http://www.jrv8.co.uk/

Kevin.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:15 am
by landkeeper
thanks for that

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:07 pm
by katanaman
JRV8 is also a member on here.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:05 pm
by landkeeper
i gave him a ring and he was a wealth of help and information so i'm going to bring the block up to him at some point in the near future and let him give it the once over , and then i suppose we can take it from there
thanks for the pointers and help lads