The V8 Owners Forum -

Dave,

That doesn't sound right because you will only get the full 12v on start up and the feed will then revert to the ballasted supply which will only be 6-9v and not be sufficient to feed a 12v coil.

I would re-check what the coil actually requires as a continuous supply.

Kevin.

Kevin.

I think the chaps meant that I should have a 12V direct supply too. At least they should, they are the experts.

I have removed the ballast resistor and intend to fit both supplies as I assume a fused 12V would drop when cranking.

Thanks again

Dave

tetlow wrote:Kevin.

I think the chaps meant that I should have a 12V direct supply too. At least they should, they are the experts.

I have removed the ballast resistor and intend to fit both supplies as I assume a fused 12V would drop when cranking.

Thanks again

Dave

The whole system will drop voltage when you are cranking, there is no magical connection that gives a full 12 volts when you are trying to start the motor.

The whole idea of the ballast resistor is that your 9 volt coil still gets its full 9 volts when you are ranking, by bypassing the ballast resistor just during starting, then when the starter is let go the ballast comes back into the circuit to keep your 9 volt coil on 9 volts, not 12.

You have a 12 volt coil, so simply run 12 volts to it from your ignition switch, no need for twin wires from starters or any other electrickery like that.

Job done.
Thanks chaps.
Dave