The V8 Owners Forum -

yep the eng/box are sitting in the cortina thanks to you had to cut trans tunnel, and will slightly cut the sdi sump . the gear shift sits more forward than the ford did,with the engine right back ...... next job is to fabricate some engine mounts gearbox crossmember and the famous clutch cylinder .

Glad we can help, looks like you are on a mission with this conversion
Just noticed your another Ian, seems to be the most popular name on the site,

Im a bit curious about the gearbox remote, how long is it from where it bolts to the gearbox choice of about 2 options, 275 mm or about 100mm overall length, Im certain that you need the short remote, so you may be lucky and have a short one allready fitted, if its made from ally you have the jag one and if its cast iron and possibly at an angle it will be a sherpa remote, at the bottom/side of the main case of the gearbox there will be a oval pad this should have some numbers on it, this can be used to ID the box on this site.
The other option with the clutch could be convert the clutch arm to cable, im sure that has been done before as well without too much bother

hi ian i was looking at that idea, only trouble is the cable would have to enter from the rear of the gearbox which would include a loop system on a nice sweep. so not too tight, and by the exhaust aswell tony,s idea seems ok. like to see more pics though

I'm using an SD1 CV joint on my Sherpa propshaft, Bailey Morris in St. Neots made the shaft for me with a brand new joint. Just over £100.

Chris.

thankyou for that, last one on my prefect rod was done by andy robinsons race cars { many moons ago } thats the next job after the eng/box are sat correctly, and my tunnel welded back up

Ahh, so you are not a novice, Thats good its sometime hard to impart info to somebody that does not understand the basics,
I see you are on BSC, There are a lot of informed people on there as well, but its a anoraky, even these people are comeing round and accepting us,

Chris, TBH I have never had a CV failure on a prop, but I have had the rubber burst one and split on another, I am probaly biased against them for that reason, In operation its probably a neater soloution than UJ

Ian

ian.stewart wrote:
Chris, TBH I have never had a CV failure on a prop, but I have had the rubber burst one and split on another, I am probaly biased against them for that reason, In operation its probably a neater soloution than UJ

Ian

I used one because the centreline of the engine is raised at the front, whereas the axle is parallel to the road. So to cut down NVH, I used a CV joint.

But it did work just fine with a UJ at both ends, I'm just a bit of a perfectionist.

Chris.

hi guys thanks for all your advice its brill got prob rocker cover against bulkhead, waterpump flange in line with the back of the slam panel now do i cut the bulkhead back or the slam panel oh and its bloody cold

Wow, I am surprised your car has a smaller under bonnet than my Mk2,
The Bulkhead probably does not need to be cut back, what will hwlp is the Front pully/ballencer, water pump and alternaor bracket from a Rover P5/6, The alt bracket can be easily fabricated,
this set up is about 35mm shorter and give some releif on the water pmp problem,
The other option is to recess the the rad into the front panel there are plenty of loe wide modern rads about that can do the Job, plenty of people have a Audi 100 rad fitted under the front pannel, and my mate had a Escort Diesel in there, Mk3 transit rads fit under the front panle of my boys escort,

what would we do without you wise one,s yea just had a look at that one E,making the slam panel detachable, shave a bit here and there, and run a dinlowe ooops i mean a kenlowe i only have four days to get it sitting pretty, wife told me no garage on xmas day good will to men and all it says at xmas

Plennty more days in the year, she obviously knows you far to well