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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 10:10 pm
by mgbv8
I know a lot of folk go on about adjustable rods being the mutts nuts. But I'm not convinced. The only reason I opted for them was because I fitted Rhoades pump down lifters which have a different radius in the cup to a standard Rover V8 lifter.

Unless you are going to be builiding a fire breathing monster engine, I cant see the point in wasting the money on them when you can get the pre load set within a few thou either way by just using pedestal shims.

I also fitted adjustable chrome moly rods to my new 4.6 build and I found it to be a real bind. I had to pay to get them machined to the right length so I could fit the ends. I had a right laugh getting the ends into the rods. and when all was said and done, I ended up with the pre loads set to pretty much what they should be, but not without a lot of fiddling about. The Real Steel adjuster ends have quite course threads and it takes maybe three or four attempts at each lifter before you get it right as you have to take the movement of the tip into account as you nip it up.
I wish I had put the money towards a set of roller rockers now.

I know that adjustable rods will take out a few thou of manufacturing error here and there on the ally rockers etc but I havent really noticed any real improvment in performance with them.
But if you need the pre load to be set to say 60 thou. What real difference will a few thou either way make?

On my old 3500 I fitted Rhoades lifters with standard heavy RV8 rods from Real steel. I know the lifter cup radius was different to the rod tip radius but I just fitted them and set the pre load using pedestal shims.

I raced that engine for two years at the Pod and never had any lifter or rod problems. I melted as few pistons along the way, but not once did I get any probs with pre load. Each time I rebuilt the engine, I checked the pre load with my bit of wire and it was pretty much spot on each time. Give or take 3 thou.

Sorry if this has gone against the grain, but its just my own personal experience with these things. At the risk of being shot down in flames by you more experienced tuners, I will say that for a normal road going car that does the odd RWYB day they are a waste of money.
My old 3500 made 12.2 seconds on the 1/4 mile before the adjustable rods. And it did just the same with them. But it took 5 times longer to set the pre loads.

Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 11:03 pm
by pwd95
Hi Perry, thanks for that, it's all good experienced info. 1st thing I'm going to do is find out how much they've taken off the heads & shim it accordingly before checking. If it's still out I'll decide the best course from there.

Quick question, is this you at Coombe June 07, kicking everythings ass at the 'Classic & Sportscar' action day? Did you nip home to change your petrol tank?

Image

Image

Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:42 pm
by mgbv8
Nice looking B. But not mine.
I only do RWYB or Santapod show days in mine.
1/4 mile is my bag mate.

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:22 pm
by mgbloke
Hey thats my baby.
Yep. Id been having problems with a missfire and after replacing everything I could think of the petrol tank was my last hope. Turned out to be the foam inside semi blocking the pickup on hard cornering.
Thanks for the complement.

Mark

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:44 pm
by pwd95
Hi mgbloke, spoke to you a couple of times during the day about your carb set up. Made my day watching you anhialate everything in your path :lol:

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:51 pm
by pwd95
Right chaps quick question. I've had the heads back with new bolts. Chap at JE thinks I have the stretch bolts & the machine shop have matched the bolts up with what came out & he thinks they're stretch bolts, 3 long & 7 short each side. Do I do the 20NM + 90+90 degrees or 90NM. The Overhaul manual I have talk about suffix A & B engines. How do I make sure?
Ta

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:10 am
by katanaman
stretch bolts are suffix B

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:27 am
by pwd95
Where on the engine does it say suffix B?

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:41 am
by katanaman
It probably doesn't and you probably don't even have a suffix B engine but the torque settings you use must match the bolts you use. You say you are using stretch bolts so you have to use those settings which is suffix B. You can equally use 4.0 or 4.6 sequence as they use the same settings.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:33 am
by pwd95
Quick vid of my bolts. The ones that came out had loose washers, are they stretch? The new ones have fixed washers & longer threads, are these stretch?

http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h32/p ... Bolts2.flv

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:05 pm
by pwd95
Right then chaps, fired her up earlier & she's running like a dog. Missing badly, surging like mad, I can just about keep her revving around 2.5 - 3k revs by blipping the throttle but if I keep the throttle constant the revs just drop off & she stops. Done some research & it could be anything :roll: :lol:

Seriously; the coolant temp sensor plug, next to the thermotime switch, is very loose in all directions. I can wiggle it in all directions, whereas the thermotime switch plug next to it is solid as you'd expect. Could this connector cause this much trouble?
:?

P.S. It's an early flapper efi.

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 12:53 pm
by katanaman
Given that you have just rebuilt this engine and assuming it was running ok before I would go looking for air intake air leaks. It wouldn't be the first time the intake manifold hasn't sealed properly.

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 10:56 pm
by pwd95
Woohooo, she lives!!!!!

Niped the plenum bolts up, one or two of them were not quite tight & she fired up & drove like a dream. Must have bin drawing some air though there somewhere.

Fair to say I feel pretty fracking elated right now, big weight off my mind.
Thank you very much for your help and support chaps, very much appreciated.

:wink: