The V8 Owners Forum -

Not a problem mate. Appreciate the offer anyway. I'm perfectly happy building it as a low compression unit. Was never chasing power with this one, so happy to keep original parts. If a set of higher comp pistons falls in my lap I'll use them, but otherwise will continue with what I've got.

Anyone want to volunteer any info on my earlier request of which honing tool to buy? If no better suggestions I'll go for the machine mart 'medium' one at about £20. More expensive than some eBay ones, but it's one of their 'best sellers' so I presume it's what most use.

I use a Draper Glazebuster. Its the same as many others but with Draper written on it !

I use the medium stones in it.

Many thanks. Will get one ordered up.

While I'm putting together a shopping list, what will I need in terms of lubes etc. Bear in mind that engine may well be sat for a while before it gets installed.

Engine assembly lube?

Cam assembly lube?

Do all the various fixings on conrods, crank bolts, head holts etc need loctite or some form of thread sealant added, or are they just torqued to the correct spec?

Are gaskets fitted dry, with a smear of grease, or with a specific sealant on one side or both?

Apologies for the newbie questions. A steep learning curve, and don't like to start a job without everything in place beforehand.

Hi

answers below

Engine assembly lube? Yes

Cam assembly lube? Yes

Do all the various fixings on conrods, crank bolts, head holts etc need loctite or some form of thread sealant added, or are they just torqued to the correct spec?
Generally just torque to spec using the correct lubricants. if using studs do not bottom out the end in the block, put them in finger tight then loosen them 1/4 turn. If they go into a water way add a dab of silicon sealent (B&Q will do)

Are gaskets fitted dry, with a smear of grease, or with a specific sealant on one side or both?
Generally If it is sealing oil I install with a wipe of 20/50, if it is water I use a wipe of silicon, however I stick cork sump gaskets onto the block with a wipe of right stuff and a wipe of oit the other side. Inlet manifold gaskets I cover both metal faces with flat clear plastic, reasonably thick stuff like rubble sack, smear both faces of the gasket in right stuff and clamp the whole thing up to correct torque, leave it for 24 to 36 hours to dry, take it all apart strip off the plastic tidy up the gasket and reinstall, that is me and I have a chevy if it is a rover with a composite gasket then I would use it dry.

Apologies for the newbie questions. A steep learning curve, and don't like to start a job without everything in place beforehand.
Please do not apologise, it is the wise man that asks the questions because he is the one gaining knowledge.
best of luck
Mike

Excellent info. Many thanks.

Can you direct me to 'right stuff'. Can't seem to find it when googled. Some sort of sealant is assume?

Getting either a Range Rover or SD1V8 Haynes Manual is a good idea.

Chris.

Hi
real steel do it, at least that is where I get mine, it is this stuff http://www.permatex.com/products/our-br ... ight-stuff
I think I have seen it in Halfords!
top speed/CM frosts probably do it as well
http://www.topspeedautomotive.co.uk/ http://www.cmfrost.co.uk/ they are the same company really (well Frosts are the parent company and focus more of American V8s, top speed are more general they are both very-very helpful, but CM Frosts are much more focused on drag racing and hotrods.
best regards
Mike

Great. Will add those links to my shopping list. Good thinking on the RR manual too. Sure I can pick one of those up cheap.

Miserable weather so I thought I'd take a stab at overhauling one of the two Stromberg carbs. Some time ago had bought the kit from Burlen. Not cheap. Nearly £100 if I recall. Had earlier bookmarked a number of sites that showed how-to guides, though none in as much detail as I would have liked.

Everything came apart nice and easy. Only replaced what looked like it needed it. All gaskets obviously, and the diaphragm but left the spindles in place as there was no lateral movement. Also left the butterfly's in place as they looked fine, and they were also different to the ones in the kit as they have some sort of sprung 'relief valve' so I thought it best to stick with the originals. The replacements were just plain brass.

Replaced the little valve thing in the float bowl, although the original had a nice little gauze filter which the replacement didn't. Also left in place the washer under this as the height was correct for the float level. The replacement was a little too slim. Replaced the fibre washer on the top of the damper, the tiny brass cup on the damper and the O ring on the plastic plug at the bottom of the float bowl although the replacement wasn't as fat as the original. Will have to check when I finally fuel it up to make sure it seals properly.

All in all the Burlen kit was a bit of a waste of money for me personally as most of the cash seemed to be in the stuff I didn't use. Would be better to strip it down and then order the parts you need. Also didn't include an O ring for the seal between the damper reservoir and the carb main body which seemed odd given that these seem to need replacing.

Maybe I'll use more on the second one.

Anyway. Useful learning experience. Didn't have time to start the second one, so spent half an hour polishing the dashpot.

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Well, ordered my parts up yesterday evening. Used LRSeries who I use for the majority of my landrover parts, in the end as they had virtually everything in stock and the few bits they didn't, nor did anyone else. Went with all stock parts so that I know there should be no issues relating to compatibility and given that this is meant to be a budget build, mostly pattern parts where available. Bought camshaft and followers, crank and conrod bearings, piston rings, timing chain and sprockets and a load of other minor bits that were missing on the manifold when I bought it. Already have a kit for all the seals and gaskets. Also ordered rtv sealant and assembly lube off eBay along with some plastiguage and a new set of feeler gauges.