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Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:35 am
by JP.
j.johnson23 wrote:I was thinking an m112 off an XKR.
2:1 RATIO.
Meaning you've got a 4+ liter V8 or going high in boost on a 3,5/3.9.

2:1 ratio on an Eaton also means your on the limit of its efficiencies. Above 14000rpm they create lots of heat instead of efficient boost.

Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 8:32 pm
by j.johnson23
Thanks for replies gentlemen.
I will go for the std setup as I don`t intend to bang a load of nitrous in. :D
Blowing through an SU carb is easy.Just reverse the spindle seals.fit a 40mm restrictor just in front of carb and boost reference the float chamber.
Finding the right needle and spring combo is the tricky part
:lol:
I`m going to try one of those Aldon programmable ignition boxes that can retard timing under boost as using the distributor diaphragm is a bit on the crude side,even for me.

Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 9:00 pm
by mgbv8
j.johnson23 wrote:Thanks for replies gentlemen.
I will go for the std setup as I don`t intend to bang a load of nitrous in. :D
Blowing through an SU carb is easy.Just reverse the spindle seals.fit a 40mm restrictor just in front of carb and boost reference the float chamber.
Finding the right needle and spring combo is the tricky part
:lol:
I`m going to try one of those Aldon programmable ignition boxes that can retard timing under boost as using the distributor diaphragm is a bit on the crude side,even for me.

Thats pretty much how I figured out how to do it on a mates car with a blow though SU on his cobbled together turbo setup. It seemed to work ok until he fried it with nitrous though ;)

Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:04 pm
by stevieturbo
I know blowing thru the carb is easy, I was talking about the physical installation of making it all happen

And make sure you're using HIF's. Needle is easy....just file it lol. Saves buying and trying dozens of needles.

Been there, done it over 20 years ago. And finding parts then was very easy

Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:48 pm
by j.johnson23
Doubt I will be getting the m112 anywhere near 14000@ a 2:1 ratio.
I think 6000 engine rpm is the very most I will get and then not for too long if I want to keep it in one piece.
If engine does blow and performance was good it won`t be a lost cause as I don`t mind spending some money on a set up that works.

Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:28 pm
by mgbv8
j.johnson23 wrote:Doubt I will be getting the m112 anywhere near 14000@ a 2:1 ratio.
I think 6000 engine rpm is the very most I will get and then not for too long if I want to keep it in one piece.
If engine does blow and performance was good it won`t be a lost cause as I don`t mind spending some money on a set up that works.


If engine does blow and performance was good it won`t be a lost cause as I don`t mind spending some money on a set up that works.


Ha Ha!!!
I've got the T Shirt on that one mate :)
I'm into my Rover V8 for way too much money now. But the results have been very good to say the least. Its a trap that lots of us low budget racers get stuck in. We cant afford huge chunks of money. But we can afford small spends over a long time to build and modify as funds are set aside.
If I knew what I was going to spend between 2008 and today on getting the Rover V8 to run mid 9's (and hopefully a high 8) on the strip I would have taken out a loan to buy a new engine from the guy in the video I'm about to show you. This engine is for my mates Capri. Its over 1000hp on the carb only and it cost $12,000.00 + shipping. Work that out at todays exchange rates?? Luckily he has a mate who ships in from the USA regularly so he got the engine delivered to the UK for £400 all in. RESULT!!!
The engine in the vid arrived fully built and tuned to 1025hp minus the vac pump and the headers. Bloody good deal I reckon?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbwcAYpy5QU&feature=share&list=UUgzTg3CpwVil5HQWMDkXmiw


Having said all of the above I now know how to build a Rover V8 to make good power on boost and nitrous for drag racing. And it wont cost anywhere near as much as I have spent doing my own R&D in the last 6 years.

I now think I can take a stock 4.6 and add some new internals to my own specs and build a block and head setup that would make 500hp on boost and nitrous.

Remember that I said DRAG RACING, not road use ;)

I only build my stuff for flat out racing these days :)

Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:11 am
by Eliot
mgbv8 wrote:If I knew what I was going to spend between 2008 and today on getting the Rover V8 to run mid 9's (and hopefully a high 8) on the strip I would have taken out a loan to buy a new engine from the guy in the video I'm about to show you.
When I wanted more power in the dakar, I simply replaced the rover with a 5.7 chevy (Which cost me £400) and when i wanted more power, I dropped a pair of turbo's on the engine (£1000 for turbos + £1000 supporting parts)

So that's two power upgrades in 18 years of ownership. How many times have you seen people selling engines that have had a fortune spent on them in incremental upgrades?

Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:22 am
by j.johnson23
I loved the little 1600 supercharged dutton I built and when I thought I `d got used to the power took it out in the rain for a laugh,I nearly poop myself a good few times and realised that i`m not the ace driver I had thought I was.
The TR with the v8 and 3.9 diff is just the same but the noise of a blower mixed with sound of the v8 has me hooked.