The V8 Owners Forum -

I would go for composite head gaskets and stretch bolts (rather than tin gaskets).
Also a composite valley gasket.

If you are keeping a distributor, there is no point in a camshaft thrust plate as the reaction from the distributor / oil pump gear keeps it well and truly shoved back into the block!

Chris.

mgbv8 wrote:

Sammy wrote:

DaviesDJ wrote:Send them to woards of rugby - Richard is a Todd freind of mine and will give you stage 1 with 3 angle and open & blended throats as standard - say Dave sent you - 01788 543900 - genuinely there is nothing in it for me - he does the best work. Does more rover v8s the. Almost anybody - mostly for Europe - 2-3 a week -

OK thanks; however I was hoping to find somewhere more local to get all the work done that I can't do myself - don't fancy sending my heads though the post plus I prefer to support local businesses where I can.

Cheers
Sammy

Where do you live Sammy ??
If we know this we can point you to a workshop that may help you.
Also, if the valve guides are not badly worn you can get the tops cut down to take the later Rover valve stem seals that push on.

Ormskirk is in West Lancashire, towards Southport/North Liverpool. Looking on the internet I found RNA Engineering in St Helens which looks like they should be able to do the re-bores and engineering bits I can't do myself and they're only half an hour away from me. But it's always nice to have places recommended, especially as this is a bit new to me. I've worked on bike engines before but always managed to do everything myself (although I did knacker an XS1100 casing once!).

Cheers
Sammy

ChrisJC wrote:I would go for composite head gaskets and stretch bolts (rather than tin gaskets).
Also a composite valley gasket.

If you are keeping a distributor, there is no point in a camshaft thrust plate as the reaction from the distributor / oil pump gear keeps it well and truly shoved back into the block!

Chris.

I think a composite gasket would lower the cr quite a bit, and from what I've read stud/nuts are the most reliable for the head.

I'm probably being over cautious with the thrust plate, but I think if the cam I end up with will take one then its a fairly cheap and easy modification which will improve reliability, particularly as I'm hoping to increase the rev range.

Cheers
Sammy

Why not just use a cam thrust button !
I'd agree with studs for your heads

I run my 5 litre stage 3 with nitrous and high rev lifter without a thrust plate - 10,000 miles and no probs - have a stump dizzy and mega jolt

Sammy wrote:

ChrisJC wrote:I would go for composite head gaskets and stretch bolts (rather than tin gaskets).
Also a composite valley gasket.

If you are keeping a distributor, there is no point in a camshaft thrust plate as the reaction from the distributor / oil pump gear keeps it well and truly shoved back into the block!

Chris.

I think a composite gasket would lower the cr quite a bit, and from what I've read stud/nuts are the most reliable for the head.

I'm probably being over cautious with the thrust plate, but I think if the cam I end up with will take one then its a fairly cheap and easy modification which will improve reliability, particularly as I'm hoping to increase the rev range.

Cheers
Sammy

What other mods are you going to do that will making raising the rev limit worthwhile?

I haven't looked at what the kit you refer to contains, but I would suggest you take the time to shop around for the bits in the kit as individual items from the major suppliers. You may actually get lucky and find them cheaper as single parts.

I would also get the block and heads chemically cleaned and pressure tested. Pressure testing will give you the peace of mind that all is good in the castings and the clean will make it all a lot nicer to work on. If you are removing the core plugs, then pull the gallery plugs too before you get it cleaned.

Have fun!

Sammy wrote:

ChrisJC wrote:I would go for composite head gaskets and stretch bolts (rather than tin gaskets).
Also a composite valley gasket.

If you are keeping a distributor, there is no point in a camshaft thrust plate as the reaction from the distributor / oil pump gear keeps it well and truly shoved back into the block!

Chris.

I think a composite gasket would lower the cr quite a bit

Yes, it does, so you have to skim the heads accordingly, just like Rover did.

The composite gaskets seal a million times better than the tin ones ever did.

Chris.

Hi, I'm in the process of getting all the bits and pieces for a 3.9 rebuild. Would you like my spread sheet of bits, prices and where to buy? It's 3.9 but most of it should be applicable.

I've got HD rockers, isky lifters, windage tray, ARP studs, largest valves for standard seats and bulleted guides, etc, etc that would all go well on a fast road build (and I've already searched out the best prices.)

ChrisJC wrote:

Sammy wrote: I think a composite gasket would lower the cr quite a bit

Yes, it does, so you have to skim the heads accordingly, just like Rover did.

The composite gaskets seal a million times better than the tin ones ever did.

Chris.

How much would need to skimmed to keep the CR the same? Do the composite gaskets come in different thicknesses or are they all the same?

Cheers
Sammy

About 0.5 - 0.7mm. The composite gaskets (OE spec) are all the same. There may be aftermarket variations in thickness, but that I don't know about.

Chris.

cammmy wrote:Hi, I'm in the process of getting all the bits and pieces for a 3.9 rebuild. Would you like my spread sheet of bits, prices and where to buy? It's 3.9 but most of it should be applicable.

I've got HD rockers, isky lifters, windage tray, ARP studs, largest valves for standard seats and bulleted guides, etc, etc that would all go well on a fast road build (and I've already searched out the best prices.)

Yes thanks that would be very useful! I've PM'd you.

Cheers
Sammy

Sammy and Cammy !

Thats a great team name