The V8 Owners Forum -

Tanehau wrote:Hey Nollywood!

We have proplems with the electrics. I use stock audi s8 ahc ecu and a4 2.4 30v instrument and when i start the engine it starts and will run only 1 or 2 seconds and shotdown. There is the relay what gives power to the nozzles. if we take direct power to the nozzles it will starts and go running 1 or 2 seconds and if we use the realay it wont give the power to the nozzles. My friend try to solve how to shotdown the immobilizer put the obd port dosent give a possibility for that and the instrument dont give the key picture in the instrument.

What is wrong, if you can help us?

I can help you. Do you use Skype or Viber?

Also this project had a happy ending

Stalker Racing Team / Audi A4 B5 4.2 V8 32v AHC Yuotube VIDEO 1080p

Thanks anyway for your intrest to help me out nollywood, but this ended happily at last .

If you want help me.. the next thing what im going do is to better the V8 AHC performance. What are those? Would i get higher rpm like 7500rpm limit and is that possible with stock ahc ecu.

New to the forum(hi), but not new to Audi.

I run several quattro models; my main reason for being here is to glean more info on the Audi V8 engines.

I am about to go down the route of adapting an early 32v V8 (ABZ) to go in place of the even earlier ABH in one of my audi V8 cars.

Along with fabricating revised engine mounts, I also have to consider the combined water/oil cooler assembly. So your mod with the remote filter is of a great interest.
The V8 model had an air/oil cooler as standard, so much of the hardware already exists. All that I need to decide upon the remote filter options.


Also.
I am going to look into a manual transmission swap- all right hand drive cars were auto, with concerns about pedal box spacing.
I have heard from a few sources that VR6 flywheel, and V6 will fit the V8 crank.
Did you convert the A8 to manual?

Welcome aboard, Av8ruk.

I did indeed convert the Audi S8 motor to manual. I opted for a genuine Euro Audi S8 flywheel and clutch, all ordered brand new.

I'm aware the Volkswagen VR6 10-bolt flywheel will bolt up to the V8 32V crank. What I'm not sure of though, is the offset. I also wanted my car to be closer to OEM, with the crank angle sensor in the OEM location - the transmission. The VR6 flywheel does not incorporate a crank trigger wheel, so will require a custom 60-2 disc mounted on the crank pulley, and a relocated crank sensor on a custom bracket.

A slight change of direction, which has seen my original Audi A4 B5 2.6 Quattro Sport parted out, 2 new replacements acquired, and an extra V8 engine on the bench...

My original aim was to build a V8-powered B5 Quattro, with 6-speed 01E and a D2 S8 32V motor. I originally purchased an early B5 2.6 Quattro 5MT (1995) as the basis of my project. I installed the S8 motor and 6-speed 01E, then proceeded to completely gut the interior.

I got the car running, then began looking at B5 RS4 goodies. By this time, I traded in my DD 2001 D2 S8 for a 2005 D3 A8 4.2 QS.

Fast forward 2 years, I decided to move on from D3 ownership, and opted to part her out. Sold a ton of parts, netting me more than I'd originally paid for the car. With space being tight for myself, wife and 3 kids, we decided to move, and I had a decision to make.

My D3 was by now pretty stripped, though still running, the front air suspension had been sold, so had the entire front end, interior, MMI control panel, headlamps, brakes and a whole heap of control units. I would have to transport this car, together with my B5 approx. 205 miles to our new home.

With B5 facelift cars circa 2000 having dropped in price a great deal, I decided to transport just the D3 A8, and pull the D2 S8 motor and 6-speed 01E out of the early B5, then look out for a facelift car.

I bagged a 2000 B5 A4 2.5 TDI Quattro. At this point, I was still thinking along the lines of a stripped-out B5, with RS4 bodywork and of course the D2 S8 motor. I traded my 2002 Toyota Truck for this car. The B5 was picked up, I drove her 237 miles home. Santorin Blue, black leather, aftermarket HID kit, and some nasty aftermarket 18" alloys. I'm talking real NASTY here. I actually prefer stock 16" steel wheels with plastic hub caps.

Then an unforeseen dilemma...

...I have ended up with 2 V8 motors, and 2 6-speed 01E trannys.

So the hunt was on for another B5. I bagged one closer to home, a 2000 B5 A4 2.8 30V Quattro in Pelican Blue.

The eBay pictures were vague, and obviously taken with a camera phone, the car was parked out on the road, and hadn't been washed prior to taking the pictures. I got hold of the seller, and agreed on a price, £400 ($630).

When I did see the car in the metal, my opinion changed a bit - I still felt it was an average B5, and would build a stripped-out RS4'd and V8-powered car. However, when I got behind the wheel and began the journey home, my opinion changed. This car drove great, felt right, felt tight. It handled great too!

By the time I got her washed the next day, my plans changed. They had to! This car was way too clean to strip out the interior.

My plans are thus:

Pull the 4.2 V8 40V motor from my D3 A8, and install it in the Pelican Blue car, mated to my spare 01E (pulled from my old Europa Blue B5). As I have an entire parts D3 A8, I intend to use as much of the goodies in my Pelican Blue B5 - auto dim interior mirror, electric rear blind, front brakes, rain sending wiper / automatic headlamp module (top of the screen).

Exterior will be OEM B5 RS4, though the colour will remain the same.

The Santorin Blue car will be gutted, and the D2 S8 engine mated to the existing 01E 6-speed manual. This car is unlikely to get the B5 RS4 exterior, but we'll see. The colour will certainly be changed.

Right now, I am purchasing B5 RS4 parts. I have been in touch with my bodyshop, and they are looking at late June / early July to commence work on Pelican.

The Pelican Blue car:

I spent the afternoon pulling the D3 A8's rear parcel shelf with the electric rear blind, and LED high level brake lamp. I may trim it down to fit the Pelican B5, or remove the actual blind cartridge, and install it in the B5's parcel shelf.

Tomorrow I'll remove the A8's auto dimming rear view mirror.

The D3 A8's rear parcel shelf, with integrated electric rear blind:

The big brute currently holding the V8 hostage:

Update 18th May 2015:

Today I sent the D3 A8 4.2 V8 40V (BFM) ECU off to get the immobiliser defeated, as I don't want to run the A8's instrument cluster; nice enough as it undoubtedly looks, I want to keep the B5 interior stock.

This is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the motor yet. I've sold tons off the D3 A8, but I've been careful to make sure nothing to do with the engine running has been removed. It makes sense to carry out the immobiliser defeat first.

To test this, I've got a non-transpondered key cut. Once my ECU is back, I will attempt starting the engine with the foreign key. If the procedure is successful, it should run just fine. Then I will proceed in pulling the motor out, and prep it for installation into my Pelican Blue B5.

I can't wait to turn the key for the first time.

As a matter of interest, how much does it cost to have the ECU etc converted to allow the engine to run stand alone?

]Update 27th May 2015:

I got my A8 D3 4.2 V8 ECU back today. I promptly plugged it into my A8, and tried starting her with the blank folding key I got cut (without a transponder chip).

The engine roared into life. I'm pretty stoked. Now I just need to pull the engine and trans from the A8, and pretty much remove all the parts that will come in useful - harnesses, control modules, dash, fuel pump, all relay boards, panels, alcantara roof lining, steering wheel etc.

I need to get it stripped, so I can get the wreckers to pick up the shell, then I can clear garage space to commence work.

Update 01st June 2015:

My C5 RS6 instrument cluster turned up today. I ordered it with the 3 connectors, just in case they were different to mine, but they are the same. Thank the good Lord my B5 is pretty much the last facelift, meaning digital clock.

I quickly swapped it with my original, not to start the engine - it won't fire anyway, as immobiliser will be active. I was curious to see how the cluster would react to the B5's inputs.

First impressions: Everything works as it should, as far as warning lights go. The illumination is not as bright as my original, as the C5 cluster needs an external rheostat to control the intensity. Not a big deal, I'll sort that out.

TPMS: This RS6 had the optional TPMS, with no input to the cluster, the warning on the DIS is constant. Again, no big deal. Some grounding, or install TPMS, with the input going to the relevant plug/pin. I'll unpin the feed from the spare connectors that were supplied with the unit.

Fuel gauge / range on DIS: As I was already aware, the C5 has a larger gas tank compared to the B5. My car actually has the tank 3 quarters full, but it reads just above the reserve with the RS6 cluster. Of course, this affects the range.

My options are:

Install a VR external to the B5's level sender, and fine tune the resistance. The level sender is a simple variable resistor, with a carbon track and slider.

Install a C5 level sender, and adjust the float arm to suit the B5's tank.

Either option will work.

Some pictures. Note the B5's illumination is currently much brighter than that of the C5.

C5 RS6:









B5 A4 2.8 Quattro facelift:





C5 RS6 on the bench:



The RS6's DIS is perfect, but I would rather get it replaced as a preventative measure. With our cars, it's not so much "if" it fails, more like "when" it fails. I will also have white pointers, B5 S4-style fitted, and get a custom logo to replace RS6. This means a new dial, and the logo will relate more to my B5 and it's final state.

Update 13th June 2015:

I stripped down my Audi RS6 C5 instrument cluster, to replace the red pointer needles with white ones. I purchased a 2001 Audi S4 B5 cluster for this. I haven't wrecked it, I simply swapped the needles over. I think the white needles look pretty good in the RS6 cluster.

Before:





During:











After:

I also made time to remove the 18" wheels the previous owner had fitted to my Audi A4 2.5 TDI V6 Quattro.

Wheels are a very personal thing, and can either make or break a car. In this case, I feel they detracted from the looks of the B5. A shame really, as I have had brand new tyres fitted to the wheels 225/40x18 which have only covered 60 miles!

I opted to fit the original 7"x16" wheels that should have been on the car from the factory. These were off my old A4 2.6 V6 Quattro Sport, that I scrapped. The wheels are only temporary, as both cars will be wearing very different boots once they have come out of the paint shop. For reference, the Santorin Blue Audi A4 is pictured further up on this page.

These are the wheels off the car, which will now be sold: