Watts link links?

General Chat About Brakes & Suspension

Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators

Post Reply
Markus
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 44
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:36 am
Location: Australia

Watts link links?

Post by Markus »

This may be a stupid question but do the links on a "Watts link" setup need to be parallel to the ground to work properly?
Reason I'm asking is because I don't have a lot of space to weld in large offset brackets on the rear axle and I wanted to use the rear of the lower link brackets as mounting points.
If I do so the links will be closer to horizontal centreline of the diff housing.


Mark
Triumph TR7/V8 race car
Triumph TR6 road car

kiwicar
Forum Contributor
Forum Contributor
Posts: 5461
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Milton Keynes

Post by kiwicar »

Hi
It is the old chestnut, what do you want it to do? ideally at static ride height they should be parralel to each other and the ground and at 90 degrees to the central link, for a race car there is little advantage over a panard rod if you do not set up the watts correctly. If it is a road car and there are rubber bushes at either end then it makes little difference if it is a bit out, provided that at some point in it's travel both links are parrelel to each other and at the same time at 90 degrees to the middle link.
However why go for this set up if you an't fit it in the space? there are several other set ups that can be made to work better than an incorrectly set up watts linkage a good old panard rod is simple and predictable and strong and generally easier to fit, a 3 link set up with a central trailing A arm in a live axel can work very well on either a track car or an extream off roader/rock crawler, a 4 bar also can give good predictability and fit in in a limited space.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!

Markus
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 44
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:36 am
Location: Australia

Post by Markus »

Thanks Mike.
This question was related to my TR7 V8 which is currently in build.
Race car only and fitted with coil overs and the standard rear link geometry but using rod end links instead of rubber bushes.
Rear links have parallel lowers and angled uppers but I'm a little concerned that the rear will "walk" hence the watts link idea.
Any thoughts?
Mark
Mark
Triumph TR7/V8 race car
Triumph TR6 road car

kiwicar
Forum Contributor
Forum Contributor
Posts: 5461
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 5:00 pm
Location: Milton Keynes

Post by kiwicar »

Hi
Ok a Tr 7. . . yes the short trailing links are a bit of a problem with the rest of the geometry. Personally I would persevere with setting up a Watts linkage correctly and as it is a track car remember you do not need a lot of travel 3 inches of bump maximum so the upright floating link does not have to be very long, 4 1/2 inches tops, meaning and you should be able to fit it all in with a 1 to 1 1/2 inch offset bracket above one chassis rail and the same below the other.
best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!

Markus
Newbie
Newbie
Posts: 44
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:36 am
Location: Australia

Post by Markus »

Thanks Mike.
Will post my results when finished.
Cheers!
Mark
Mark
Triumph TR7/V8 race car
Triumph TR6 road car

Post Reply

Return to “Brakes & Suspension Area”