The V8 Owners Forum -

I'm totally restoring a TR6. Anyway the chassis is being welded at the moment and I'll be painting after that but I need to de-rust.

Originally I thought of sandblasting (or soda blasting) but not easy to do at home and otherwise expensive. Acid dip is out due to corosion problems and a wire brush will polish the metal. I thus thought of a needle gun on an airline and they are cheap to buy.

Has anyone ever used a needle gun of a chassis or similar metal?

Do not use on body sheet metal - it will either produce small dents or go through. Chassis type metal only but you will soon find where the holes are.

Garry

I think they have a high air consumption so you would need a big air compressor.
Not used one personally.

Yes, chassis only.
Yes, a 300l twin cylinder compressor.

Knocked all the rust flakes off of my D2 chassis with one. I have 100ltr compressor but it was sufficient to get the job done. Bl**dy noisy mind you, ear defenders needed. Wire brush too on angle grinder where needed but avoided polishing too much, then rust converted with Jenolite phosphoric based treatment before painting with Corroless rust stabilising paint and then Corroless glass reinforced chassis paint.

can you have the chassis dipped and galvanised ? Hence letting them deal with the rust and any treatments.

Would also make it last a hell of a lot longer, albeit not the cheapest option.

Cliff4WD wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 10, 2020 11:06 pm

Knocked all the rust flakes off of my D2 chassis with one.

Interesting, so assume a thumbs up for a needle gun then. I'm quite keen as it seems an ideal way as you say. I really would like a DIY methood as I would prefer to do it myself.

I will be using POR15 and may be a POR top coat. Used it on my Dax Rush and I am a fan of it. Toughestb paint I have ever come across.

As for acid dip, this is notorious for problems. They just power wash with water afterwards and it leaves acid in the chassis members internal seams that starts to corrode. Galvanising is worse as it reacts and in any case is very heavy. Paint is much better and inside waxoyl it. Note that needle gunning will actually cause flaked rust to fall off inside and then Waxoyl will coat at least a partially de-rusted inner surface of the chassis members.

Reacts with what ?

I've had gates and railings etc galvanised that 30 years on are still rust free. Although it certainly wouldnt be the cheapest option.

And it would be the best option as it will treat inside and out.

Although for final coating....some of the truck bedliner type coatings might be an option ? I've actually bought some UPOL Raptor to try coating some underside parts of the car.
Haven't used it yet though. In theory it should be a lot more resilient than any paint.

Acid will seep into the seams and will not come out (fully). Google acid dipping and see all the comments,

I'm painting my chassis with POR15 as I did with my other car - The toughest paint I've known.