Glassfibre moulds repairs and panel making.

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Darkspeed
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Post by Darkspeed »

If you have the mould make up a small test piece in the area of concern - Paul has no issues working some quite heavy mat into tight radii. The worse that can can happen is that you learn that something works or does not work.

I have learned today just how much a flat panel can bow as it hardens if you remove it when its still green.


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gelmonkey
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Post by gelmonkey »

Darkspeed wrote:If you have the mould make up a small test piece in the area of concern - Paul has no issues working some quite heavy mat into tight radii. The worse that can can happen is that you learn that something works or does not work.

I have learned today just how much a flat panel can bow as it hardens if you remove it when its still green.
Whilst a test panel is just that you should always leave it as long as you ca before release.
However having said that you can release then weight down and post cure within a quickly made tent with dry heat infused.
That will help.

P

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Post by gelmonkey »

Andrew
Apologies for the quick hi jack here but can answer Steves question very simply.

Steve
Gel x3 in the trim area and then use a very light CSM and allow to cure.
Then 1x satin on top
Sorted.

:D

Thanks Andrew

P

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Post by Darkspeed »

Having this 'ere expert around the place has its benefits and its drawbacks - benefit is we get free master classes , guidance, advice and the offer of trade price materials :D :D

Drawback is you do something that you would have been perfectly happy with previously - but now with all this new found knowledge - you look at it and think, that really needs this that and the other doing.

The first mould I made for one of the bumpers on the G15 is a prime example - I would never have polished it to this degree in the past - no way - and I now look at the sides of the mould and although they have no impact on the item being moulded I am going to grind them back and re-gel

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There is also an area on the mould that the gel was too thin and I have gone through to the laminate - I will have to cut this back and gel.

Just seen 4 more projects as well

:cry: :cry: :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol:
Last edited by Darkspeed on Mon Feb 29, 2016 9:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by stevieturbo »

The polishing is just ensuring a totally smooth and perfect panel ?

And I guess it also makes for easier release ?


Presumably you could polish the finished panel to this degree afterwards...but doing it on the mould will mean each produced panel already has a much better finish, so less work overall ?
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Post by Darkspeed »

All of the above. :whs

In the other thread

stevieturbo wrote: But I'm also sure it blew the yellow wax everywhere too all over the mould surface which then needed cleaning off.

No doubt with a much stronger mould there would have been less flex and it may not have helped as much, but it was a first couple of attempts and didnt want to make anything too strong in case I ended up entombing the wing forever if it didnt come out !
And I got to wondering what you meant about the Yellow Wax?

Andrew
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Post by stevieturbo »

The Bee's wax for adding shape, filling crevices etc to the original part before making the mould.

You can see here where I waxed around the backside of the chrome trim etc to secure there would be no locking points when trying to remove the mould.

Image

And the wax that then needs cleaned off from inside the mould ( this mould was my first attempt, not the same as photo above )
When wax is removed here it should leave a finished shape for the new panel.

Image
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Post by stevieturbo »

And the TNT parcel tape didnt release well !! LOL

Wont be using that again.
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Post by gelmonkey »

Andrew
Apologies again but another quick hi jack.

Steve
Buff the wax up between coats and this will help in release as already mentioned.
With regard to filling in small defects and making the shapes crisper use plasticene and just sculpt that into the shape you want.
I promise it will work even if its not waxed.

Andrew
Forgive me for piddling on your parade but it might make more sense to make a bumper panel out of the mould you have and make it spot on and then make a new mould.
Just a thought and you can ban me forever from your posts if the need arises :lol: :lol:

cheers
P

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Post by Darkspeed »

You hi-jack and interrupt as often as you like :nw I will never learn anything if you just sit back in the arm chair in hysterics :rofl at my stumbling around coated in resin and glass strands with a gel brush stuck to my forehead ...

I will see how the bumpers come out of the mould - Idea was only to take about 4 pulls from each mould. If there starts to be a demand from other club members - hopefully not - I may make another pair of moulds but that will depend on how the parts come out of the existing moulds and what the moulds are like after the 4 off.

I may still repair and rework them just for gel coat repair practice.

The one of interest for Ginetta owners will be if I make a mould for the rear bumper - Front bumpers are obtainable as they are just cut down VW beetle but the rear is Riley Elf and near rare as Dodo droppings.

As the pattern/mould making is the bit that really takes the skill I will be seeking advice on that one.

New hot glue gun is being delivered tomorrow - I had no idea there were that many different types of adhesive for them :shock: and that they could be rated in adhesive flow kg/hr !!

gelmonkey wrote:
Andrew
Forgive me for piddling on your parade but it might make more sense to make a bumper panel out of the mould you have and make it spot on and then make a new mould.
Just a thought and you can ban me forever from your posts if the need arises :lol: :lol:

cheers
P
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Post by SuperV8 »

Interesting reading, often think about making new panels for my kit car as i'm sure most are thicker and heavier than needed. That will be a project for later though when I have a large garage!

Resin infusion looks fun:
How about doing a whole boat hull!
http://www.fram.nl/workshop/mainhull/index.htm

Wanting to make a Trimaran as well but again that will have to wait...

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Post by unstable load »

Darkspeed wrote: If there starts to be a demand from other club members - hopefully not -
But, PROBABLY yes....... :lol:
Cheers,
John

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Post by Darkspeed »

Ignoring Paul about remaking the mould for now :wink: I deceided that the next test may as well be in the actual mould and have a go at making a very lightweight half bumper.

I had to extend the mould a little for ease of making the part so cardboard/masking tape/hot glue gun. Must admit to being very impressed with this little gun. The one I had before would best be described as a warm glue gun compared to this one.

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Then in went some Black gel - A bit much if I am to be honest I should have applied it a fair bit thinner - lesson learned.

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I am only putting down Gel/225CSM/228Cloth for this layup and the part should come out at about 250g and be purely decorative.

The internal finish comes out very smooth.

Image

Image

Will give it a couple of days in the mould then pop it out and have a look at how to do it differently the next time :lol:
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Post by gelmonkey »

Will be watching closely Mr Andy
Looking good so far mate

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Post by Darkspeed »

gelmonkey wrote:Will be watching closely Mr Andy
Looking good so far mate
I must have the PVA application off pat now as it popped out the mould like it was was allergic to the colour green.

I trimmed it down and it weighed in at 201g with a little more trimming to go. so would be under 200g when done. The lay-up is only about 1mm thick and it only make a decorative cover - for a super lightweight race bumper thery would be OK but not for road use with a bit of structure.

I will do a lay-up with another round of 225 and 228 which I hope will come out at about 360g and be far stronger.

Surface finish was very good.

Image

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Image

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Another couple of practice runs required. And I also have a couple of moulds to make for panels on the Strato's.

I will be asking some advice soon Paul as I am going to give making a mould for the rear bumper and that will be a bit more involved.
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