New here but have been lurking for a while. I have more or less finished rebuilding a rover V8 and have treated it to many new parts (£££ )
Anyhow on Thursday me and my buddy took the old cast iron engine out of my series III Landy and plonked in the V8..
I Dropped it in as I need to know where to run cables and such, its gotto come back out as theres no fywheel on the crank yet (being re-drilled) and I need to chop a chunk out of the footwell.
Probably going to have some questions soon, but heres some pics for you to enjoy
ChrisJC wrote:
You can see some under-bonnet shots of how I modified the bulkhead to fit my V8 in a series Landy.
Chris.
Did you use fiber glass or something there? Im thinking of pulling the footwell out and just bringing the whole right hand side in a few inches.. So it looks fairly stock, with a bit of ali plate as filler.
Heres a few more pics
Alternator and remote filter in place
Photo of main shaft going into the crankshaft, I need to make a spigot bush to fit!
ChrisJC wrote:Will that remote filter takeoff clear the diff when you go over a bump? That setup you have doesn't look any shorter than an oil filter!
Mmm I was wondering myself.. the take of was advertised as suitible for a landrover conversion but im not convinced.
It is shorter than the filter, but don't know if its short enough.. I have another on its way to me, but I think its the same design. May look into swapping it out before I do any seriouse stuff. I just need to get it on the road again so I can sell my other car and get a few more quid to finnish it all off properly
Well I have done a bit more work on the engine. I got a second hand waterpump from a disco that a mate was breaking and found the crankshaft pulley was about two inches out of line
So I rummaged around and found my spare pulley and it was in line with the waterpump. I packed out the alternator to be in line and its all gone together quite well
I have runn all the electrics and tested to check I have 12v at all the places I expect. Whilst doing the engine swap I am also changing the truck from 24v to 12v
they do a conversion adaptor for the spigot bush , but it involves cutting the end of the crank off it fit it , probably the easiest way it is to get someone to machine the gearbox shaft down to 12mm so it fits the STD V8 spigot bush
i ran my LDV V8 with that larger 3/4" dia gearbox shaft ( early shepra box and series bell housing adaptor ring )
i was using it with no bush in the crank it ened up breaking the release bearing sleeve ...lol
My dad drilled the flywheel to mate up to my pressure plate, and whilst he was at it he bored out the spigot bush so that the series main shaft fits inside the crankshaft without modification Assumin git works fine I will ask him to make me a spare for any future changes
Black mark on the main shaft shows where the crankshaft slots up to when the bell housing is fully home
Well the engine went in with a bit of persuasion. The starter needs to be replaced with a fdifferent unit but everything else went well. Then I tried to bolt up the passenger manifold.. Hmph. I know of another landy running the same manifolds (a light weight) and would have thoughtthey would clear my chassis. Appears not.
From the photos you can see that its is very dan close. And if i rest the engine mount rubber ontop of the chassis mount it actually all fits nicely. Any suggestions?
I Don't have access to a welding rig, although I could get a friend to move the engine mount, but this is an absolute last resort. Any other ideas? Maybe change the engine mount on the engine to suit? I dunno!
I have no experience of Landy conversions but if you have room to raise the engine by an inch that could solve a lot of problems that are visible in the pics namely clearance for oil pump adaptor, clearance between alternator and oil filer and rthe fact that your hoses to the remote oil filter look very tight.
I eould also recommend fitting an engine steady bar as this will reduce engine movement and stop your engine mounts failing prematurely.
You can buy shimming washers for the engine mounts, I fitted two on the
drivers side of my MGB to gain clearance for the steering shaft and it raised the engine nearly an inch, one would have been enough.
Also the adaptor on the oil pump would be better if it had side exits rather than bottom.
The earlier pics were taken without the drivers side engine mount in place, since removing and refitting it is now on the mount, the correct size fan belt is in place and I have moved the oil filer to reduce stress on the pipes
But well spotted The only issue I have now (well for now) is the clearence of the manifolds. I didn't know you could buy shims, I will have a look if I can pick some up cheap rather than making some. It should solve my problems, moving up and lightly sideways..
If you just shim under the single bolt mounting some large flat washers in varying thicknesses would do the job, you'll be surprised how much the engine lifts with quite a relatively thin shim.
I got it clear last night with a large collection of hastilly made shims. I will make some better shims up tonight (all the same size and everything) and will also run a grinder along the chassis rail to take a few mm off the edge! Which should give me room for a little movement Then I get to start her
) 
