Rover V8 into Cortina Mk1 estate

nevhall · Post by **nevhall** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:53 pm

Hi folks,
I'm new here but have been browsing the site for a few days. Hi!

As the title says, I'm looking to put a Rover into my Mk1 Cortina. My questions are the usual.

Mainly has anyone done anything similar in an early Cortina?

Also, what the best engine/gearbox combo to go for? Any early SD1/P6 motor or later Land/Range Rover engine/gearboxs?

Cheers for any advice.

Nev.

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:34 am

The fitting of a RV8 into aMk1 or Mk2 cortina is relativly straight forward,
Engine wise, you are better off with a later model engine fitted with the P5/6 water pump, bottom pulley/ballencer and alternator bracket, they reduce the engine length by about 1.25". I have about 4mm rocker cover clearance from the bulkhead, obviously the battery will have to go into the boot.
The steering box is your biggest problem, with all the idler arms and drag links its a real PIA to get any decent exhaust in there, Rad wise, I use a Mk2 Granada with the bottom of the frame trimmed down it JUST slides inbetween the chassis rails, of course you will need to trim the original rad suround to fit the rad, TBH I think I would fit a modern X flow style rad in the front of the rad panel if I did it again, Ive seen Mk3 escort diesel rads in there before but the pipes come out in a strange place, Bulkhead, you will need to trim back the area around the bellhousing as the rover bellhousing is Huge, with a LT77 you need to trim back the hoop that goes under the tunnel and also remake the top of the lever opening, you will also need to find either a Sherpa linkage, a Jag linkage or a modified shortened SDi linkage,
back axle in stock form will work, thats if you dont mind carrying a spare diff in the boot, otherwise if you use a LSD the diff will last longer, or fit a Atlas from a Mk1 3ltr capri, that should last longer, but Ive seen them break using the standard 3l engine with a bit of abuse, well a lot really,
Ask away with any questions you want, Im sure Demo2 will be along with more help as well, but he is laid up with german measels at the mo,
Regards
Ian

nevhall · Post by **nevhall** » Fri May 02, 2008 4:50 pm

Thanks Ian!

Very helpful advice there.

Think I've located a Discovery motor local to me. Will any modification to the sump be required with any of the engines? Cutting and welding isn't a problem. Years ago a friend of mine had a white Mk2 with a Rover fitted and I remember that being very tight on the exhausts with the steering box, but it went in! I'll run a std back end for now until it either breaks or I have the cash to replace it all. One of my main concerns was cooling, I'd rather go to big with our traffic jams and was thinking 2.8 Capri rad or similar, me thinks a trip to a scrap yard and get measuring would be best. Granada sounds like a good tip though.

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Fri May 02, 2008 8:09 pm

The english WILL break, carry a spare diff, My mate still has his Mk1 estate that used to have a RV8 fitted, first day he got it , the diff lasted all of 50 ft from my house,If you can remember how the Mk2 was put together, the Mk1 & 2 share the same floorpan and chassis rails, The inner wings are different so if you memory is good, that should give you some pointers,
The sump I am afraid will have to be a suck it and see job, I have a Rack fitted so I have a rear sump,
Going with the Range Rover engine you will need to get P5/6 bottom pulley, waterpump and pulley, you can then either use the correct alternator and bracket to go with the rest, or fabricate one, and fit a smaller one, I suppose one way to get the exhausts to work is use early cast manifolds and bolt them on the wrong sides, that will bring the pipes out at the front of the engine which will enable you to route them possible in a less cramped position

Post by **demo2** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 6:59 am

I had the original mk1 rad recored, still 2 core, but has 13 extra rows, also lengthened 4 inchs, the bottom pipe outlet then comes out below the anti-roll bar. Steering has been converted to rack and pinion too, as Ian said, bulkhead trimmed back only by the width of the engine, u can move it back untill it is agaist the heater. Are you going auto or manuel? I am manuel with clutch and brake cyls reversed under the dash and remote reseviors on inner wing. Also i am running serpentyne belt system as this is just as short as the P5 waterpump route. Anything u need 2 know just yell
Paul

julian.jay · Post by **julian.jay** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:15 am

What rear axle do you have fitted. I have a Mk2 Cortina Rover V8 3.9 with an english that is getting noisy !! Julian

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:42 am

Yellow Mk2??
Are you really surprised that the axle is making a noise, the options you have are probably,
Keep the english and fit a LSD, that will spread the load between both shafts and effectivly make the axle less likely to break,
Get a Mk1 Capri 3ltr axle and use that, its a little wider than the Cortina axle so you can either narrow it by a little or spend LOADS at somewhere like Fostek and have a bullit proof axle. I know Puddy uses a Atlas with his big power cossy engine 450hp, so does Cossy Pete,330hp, and the Moonstone Mk1 cortina 350hp, but Cossys dont have shed loads of torque low down the revs
Use a 8" american Ford axle get it narrowed and then forget about it, you will never break that with a RV8, with the dollar as it is now, you could probably import one from Curries NEW to your spec for less than £600,
I use a Toyota Celica axle out of a ST celica, these seem to be hard to find, but strong as fook,
Ian

Post by **demo2** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:44 am

I use the baby atlas from a 3ltr mk1 capri fitted with a mk3 lsd, seems ok so far

nevhall · Post by **nevhall** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 4:57 pm

Well I've got a Range Rover engine to be collected near the end of the month, but that comes with the 4x4 box so that'll be sold on. I'd like to go manual, unless auto is either cheaper to source or much easier to fit.

Will a discovery manual box be any diffrent in size to an early P6 or Sd1 box?

I've flicked through the Hardcastle book and noticed there's a few cast manifolds to choose from so I'll wait and see whats on the engine and see if anything more suitable is out there.

Rear axle will have to wait, but I seem to recall some cars using a Sierra rear end. Nightmare to fit because its independant? What about a Transit arse end? both will need narrowing I suppose by a fair bit. What is the LSD to suit the English from?

Thanks again guys, keep it coming, I'm lapping it up!!

Gagging to get it done for NSRA Supernats, but its not a realistic target, unless I'm lucky finding the right parts.

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:20 pm

If you're going for a solid rear axel, you could use an MGB, Piazza (comes with 4-links), SD1 (what I have) or maybe even a capri.

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:23 pm

English axles fitted with a LSD from the factory are VERY rare, and TBH if you find one, and its cheap, buy iy, then sell it on to a restorer of somthing like a Lotus Cortina, it will sell for loads!!, you are better off looking for a new one from someone like Quaife or Tranex
Any 4wd box is of no real use to you, they are a real pig to convert to 2wd and keep it compact keep looking for a LT77 or T5

Post by **demo2** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:01 am

It is an eays job 2 narrow the baby atlas urself, splines on shaftes are cut 1/2 inch longer than what goes into the diff so just lop 1/2 inch off, shorten the casing same amount and re-weld. Just make sure its jigged up so as it welds back on straight!!!

J1MMY · Post by **J1MMY** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:47 pm

Blimey Ian I keep bumping into you

Is there a considerable size difference in the LT77 and the auto 'box?

The tunnel on my 1500 automatic tina looks a fair bit bigger than on my E...?

Chassis mount, presumably?

Finally, is there any kind of conversion parts to do away with the std fan set up (allowing use of electric)?

nevhall · Post by **nevhall** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 1:37 pm

Hoorah!!

Picked up the engine today.

Number is 25D05787B CR of 9.35:1 and came out of a 1990 Range Rover.

Looks good. It's running efi at the moment but I'll junk that for a decent carb setup.

Need to look for a box now and also those narrower p6 pulleys Ian mentioned.

Anything I need to plan ahead for? Once I've got a box i'll mock it all up then drop her in to see what needs cutting. I've got the Range Rover rubber mounts to they might come in handy.

Getting there slowly

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:33 pm

why are you dumping the EFI , it takes up a lot less space under the bonnet and is so simple , if it comes with the ecu and bits ..it's only 4 wires to get it working

i'm just finishing off building a late LT77 box with new seals and bearings , it has the larger dia output shaft and higher ratio 5th gear set
NO bell housing though