The V8 Owners Forum -

There are electronic versions of both 4HP22 and 4HP24. You can get aftermarket 'manual' kits for these boxes.

Maybe a 4HP24 (which would be better for you anyway as the max torque is higher) from a P38 Range Rover (was only fitted to the 4.6) and the aftermarket electronics.

Chris.

I know Ashcrofts offer an aftermarket shift kit for the 24 but I was under the impression that there is no such thing for the 22, as it would involve a mechanical/hydraulic bolt on part where the 24 is just a box of computer stuff. I could upgrade to a 24 at a later date, or swap the internals which is what some people do to upgrade the mechanical 22, still leaves the manual shifting to sort though, do you know where such things exist?

Ashcrofts:
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk ... shift.html

Says for 4HP22 / 24.

Perfect!, no need to mix / match.

Your only think will be that the transfer box on an autobox from a P38 is 'wrong handed'. So you will still need the transfer box that you already have. I suspect they are directly interchangeable, but I have never done it so can't be sure.

Chris.

I thought the compushift was for the electronic versions only, which I really wanted to stay away from but could still go there in the future

The bumper makes it look better, but still overhangs! Need to get it lowered a bit (new springs have NO give in them at all- how on earth do I get them to settle in?!) before it looks right.



And I do still have a drama with the pulleys...

topcatcustom wrote:I thought the compushift was for the electronic versions only, which I really wanted to stay away from but could still go there in the future

It is. To get a suitable shift pattern on a mechanical box, you would need the TDi version.

Chris.

Couldn't you lop a bit off the drive shaft and attach your pulley so it's almost up against the housing?
That will move the blower back a bit and then if you extend the bumper mounts to move the bumper forward the extra 2-3" you need you should be in business.

Yeah got to shorten the drive snout a little bit, and was just thinking about extending the bumper this morning! Still got to get accessory drives from the crank as well which is a bit of a problem...

That blower is going to need a beefy drive belt so maybe if you could run your accessories off the tensioner idler with a dedicated pulley? That way, the accessory drive isn't taking up real estate in the critical area between the engine and blower.

Like your thinking John, as that was one of my thoughts! One of the "accessories" is the dry sump pump though, so the less belts (chance of drive being lost) the better, I may actually run the blower idler pulley as the dry sump drive sprocket, and run the less important items from that, though drive speed is an issue, the pump wants to be approx. 1/2 engine speed, which would mean an enormous pulley!

One advantage of that big a pulley is that it will give good cover around the crank and blower pulleys due to the larger diameter. You could always run the alternator off the blower belt and an electric water pump.

Couple of photo's of the bellhousing, I set up a grinder with slitting disk at a certain height on my workbench and slowly turned the bellhousing round until cut through, was accurate to within about 1mm actually, but then I put it on a rotary table and milled it true anyway. Welded the 15mm adapter plate on, and milled it again, the 15mm thick ally plate warped in the region of 1mm across it's width (approx 80mm) so I'm very glad I milled it flat, it sits perfectly against the block now.

Welding did not go perfectly, tungsten was contaminated but I put it down to the bell housing casting being a funny material, after about 1/4 way round I changed the tungsten for a new one and went well so kicked myself for not using a new one to start with!



I had the "cross hairs" cut so I could use the centre hole to line up the plate easier, although in the end I just used a dial gauge on the ID of the ring.



And the rear engine mounts, all 6 are similar with the same bushes so they should compress the same amount to save stressing the bell housing bolts if the box were to sag etc.



Modified the gearbox mounts to take the same rubbers as the engine.



All fitted and seem to work well, engine, box etc all out again so I can paint the chassis then start the assembly. Going to put the engine back together bog standard (internally) for now, hopefully it will run ok enough to tell what needs modifying on the car, then can do a heavily modified re-build over the winter!

- and the modified front cover, this is actually where the front mounts are.

Thanks for that. I'm intending fitting a different auto to my SD1 and that's given me some tips.

My rear prop! I shortened an old discovery one myself so it may not last long, but saves me nearly £200 so I can get it running. Unfortunately not overly keen on making a 2 piece front myself.



And old tank cleaned and painted, actually getting quite a few useable bits off the old rotten landy!

Fantastic work as always Tom !!

Looks lovely

Pel