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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

I have so far got to choose the, er, well not sure!

The 3 emergency passports we had to get were quite expensive too, after accidentally setting fire to them...

Having a slight dilemma about whether to use the blower, I'm going to have to extend the chassis by another 6-8" if I want to, and it could end up looking a bit (more) odd...


TC

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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

Stick the blower in fromt of the engine like they did in the "Beltley Boys" era on their early cars

Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.

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Post by kiwicar »

:whs
just extend the chassis until it all fits! you could always stick extra front axle on it to take the weight.
best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

That has always been my plan, problem is I have already extended the chassis by 15", and to fit the blower in (even sitting over the top of the front bumper) I need to extend it by 7" more..! I think it will end up looking ridiculous! I think I may add a big lorry turbo on the side instead, i'll get the gearbox and rear engine mounts welded in, then do another mock up with the blower before deciding for definite. I think a toothed pulley set up with the various pumps etc on the front will add interest, and the turbo pipe work will look good. Damn I did want to use the blower! Would still fit on the jag V12 I have in the workshop though...
TC

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Post by unstable load »

Couldn't you move the engine and 'box back a little to compensate? Split the difference, maybe?
Cheers,
John

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

The back of the gearbox is already up to the rear axle, and already had to chop main crossmember so handbrake drum fits! Basically engine, box and blower are in region of 10ft long..!
TC

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Post by unstable load »

OK, so instead of adding to the front of the car, why not lengthen the back end a bit so it doesn't look ridiculous?
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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

What sort of RPM should I be running my alternator and water pump at? I'm just starting to sort out pulleys, I'm guessing the engine will tick over at something like 600rpm and rev to 4000rpm~ ? Water pump roughly 1:1 and alternator 1.5:1 sound ok :?:
TC

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Post by Darkspeed »

I think a typical alternator drive ratio is 2:1 - 2.5:1 - max efficiency and output is at about 4,000-10,000 RPM so the 2.5 ratio sits about right for the typical 1500-3000 rpm norm for a petrol engine. Typical RPM cut in is 1300 and max rpm 15,000 but check for you model - curves will be online somewhere.

The water pump ratio for such an old lump sounds about right.
4.5L V8 Ginetta G27

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

Thanks for that Andrew, I actually got round to taking some pics! Got the engine mounts tacked in place, still making the gearbox ones, I did take pics but on my camera in the car...

The bellhousing, worked out well:
Image

Here it is at the mo:
Image

And with the blower:
Image

So you can see the problem! Hopefully the bumper will turn up soon, I had to buy one off eBay as didn't have one, and it will make it easier to judge the look.

Edit- here you can see how short the rear prop is going to be! (If you can make it out, still using the Landy handbrake drum on rear of gearbox). I spoke to Bailey Morris and they can make one a foot long for me which is just ok if I move the rear axle back a tad!:
Image
TC

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Post by unstable load »

The flange alignment looks a bit out, as far as I recall, the flanges need to be parallel to each other or there is all sorts of "shaftal disharmony". :cry:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks ... .[/quote]
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John

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ChrisJC
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Post by ChrisJC »

This is the rear prop on my Landie, made by Bailey Morris:
Image

Also, are you using the autobox from a Diesel. If not, you should consider it as the shift points will be better for that old lump.

Chris.
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

Fantastic thanks Chris, its from a 3.9RV8 disco, I'm not sure how it works out shift points, based on torque?
TC

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Post by ChrisJC »

If it's a fully mechanical box, (i.e. no electronics), the shift point is set by the governor and valve block. One solution I have seen is to leave the kickdown cable disconnected.

But it would be better to get an autobox from a diesel as I believe they will upshift at around 4000RPM max (I have not actually driven one, but I am sure that the TDi would not rev to 5500RPM like the V8's !!)

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Post by topcatcustom »

Yeah its the earlier ZF 22 not the electronic 24, I wanted to keep it simple and mechanical, I was really hoping to find a way of converting it to fully manual but can't find a manual valve body like you can for the popular yank boxes. I'd like to be able to shift entirely on demand, by yanking a big lever one way or the other!
TC

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