The V8 Owners Forum -

Take the oil pressure switch on the side of the timing cover out - it is the first "outlet" downstream from the oil pump - if the oil pump is picking up and pumping it will squirt out there - crank for 30 secs and see - noting that with the switch out nothing else in the engine will be getting lubrication but not an issue for that period of time and slow cranking speed.

Other than that - there is not much I can offer.
Look at these
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15128
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14857&p=113909#p113909

Garry

Thanks Garry for the posts.....I've a good read and tried pretty much everything. I've swapped the oil lines to the remote filter over, I've primed the system, I've blocked the hole for the old style pick up, and still cannot see any movement of oil. The only thing I've not done is starting the car and hoping the pressure builds, I really would like see something that give me re-assurance. I've thought about what else is in the system, and there are the pressure valves, but I really couldn't see them 'blocking' the system. Literally at my wits end!. I think time to give up today. I'm so reluctant to put the sump back on as it's a big job and if I need to remove the front cover the sump will need to come off anyway. It's just so frustrating as normally with these sort of things I can least have route to investigate...but I've got nothing apart from starting the engine or removing the entire pump to try...

BEER! needed now.

Keep it simple.

If you have a remote filter....undo the hose going into the filter ( which should feed the outside of the filter ) and spin the engine over for say 30s.

I you get no oil flow from it ( there should be a lot ), pour oil down the pipe to try and prime the pump. Then let it all soak down, and try again.

When you get oil from the pipe, refit and start the engine.

New style front cover should block the path from the old style pickup. You can fabricate a flange to cover the old pickup hole in the middle of the block. Sometimes the priming takes a long time.

Im starting to swing towards giving it a go to start up......spent all evening thinking through the system, and Im done I just have nothing else to try.

If you have a remote filter could you connect pipes together to avoid filter altogether? And then crank and see if oil flows. Before start Up fit filter again!

And last thought are you using an aftermarket take off from oil pump? Is it allowing flow? Could you put the filter back there without remote to try?

Ian.....still puzzled!

Hi Ian, All good questions and ideas..

I am using an aftermarket take off plate...As it is in a Westfield you can imagine there is no room for anything. Most of the westfield V8's have the the older front cover and use a distributor. But the new front cover puts the oil filter right on the front bottom wishbone joint. Unfortunately a take off plate is the only option.....That said, if I could find a shorter oil filter, I could probably fit it by loosening the engine mounts lifting the engine by about 2 cm, and screwing it on.....I need to figure out which one would fit, but I guess if there is one short enough that would work (I'll have a look).

I think your idea of connecting the hose together is good as it removes one of the variables.....Hopefully try next weekend.

Thanks...Paul.

Renault 5 is the shortest filter that will fit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Filter-R ... SwBYteiZaW

As you see fairly short


Ian

And the cheapest

Ordered...many thanks, that’s great alternative.

Just had the same dilemma with a mates' serp v8 - no oil pressure on cranking (a totally new engine) - general advice was to start it, which i did with some trepidation - i still didn't come up instantly, bit did after probably 30 seconds - which was a bit worrysome. As others suggested, I had the oil pressure switch removed and checked for oil coming out that hole - which it did eventually.

In my experience:
1. With the crank driven oil pump, you won't get pressure at cranking speed.
2. If you have either a remote filter or an oil cooler, then you can backfill the system to ensure it's all primed.
3. When you start it, the engine management system will immediately spin it up to 1500rpm, and if the system is correctly assembled, it will prime within a few seconds.

Chris.

Again chaps...thanks for all the response....it is much appreciated.

I think think this is my strategy now, and that's to get it back together and fire it up for 30 seconds. I've done some further digging and found this nicely drawn diagram of the front cover. A few things spring to mind. It makes sense that cranking does not see oil pressure on a new engine, as it seems the pressure relief valve acts more like a pressure regulator valve. Clearly this needs to have enough initial pressure to move, and that may explain why the cranking revs (around 300rpm) is not enough. If this doesn't open, then no oil pressure....unless you have an oil cooler (which I dont). Also, a good check maybe removing the oil cooler bung...in theory that by passes the valve and oil should pour out even on crank.

You are using the correct timing cover gasket?

when i built my engine i have the oil cooler ports blocked off,
and where the oil pressure switch goes we back filled with oil so the pump had something to suck against

Coops wrote: ↑

Tue May 19, 2020 1:22 pm

You are using the correct timing cover gasket?

good question, and answer is.....I think so!.....But without taking all apart, I cant be 100%. I have read there are different versions. Do you know what the actual difference is.....