The V8 Owners Forum -

for a rebuilded engine (3.9i EFI rover engine) what´s the best oil to use?
Mineral 20w50 MOBIL1 for example?
or a fully syntethic oil?

My recommendation for the best oil is Silkolene Comp4 20w-50. This is fully synthetic oil that will give you the best protection, keep your oil pressure where it should be and is high in ZDDP (ie - 1400ppm).

Here in Portugal, the specialists tell me to put 5W40 fully syntethic oil...what you have to say about this? I

I´m thinking put the Mobil 20w50

MendipWursel wrote:My recommendation for the best oil is Silkolene Comp4 20w-50. This is fully synthetic oil that will give you the best protection, keep you oil pressure where it should be and is high in ZDDP (ie - 1400ppm).

is this readily available mate?
as im using lucas 20W50 fully synth with a zinc additive,

just done a search,
that right its a motorbike engine oil?

I will trust you and put a 20w50 fully synthetic oil. I think my engine is dead because the oils used in POrtugal!!
We use 5w40.
Thank for the info

In my opinion 5W40 is too thin. RV8's pump mass volume, at low pressure hence the need for a 20w 50 oil.

There was mention of ZDDP and the lack of it in moderm oils. Modern oils do have ZDDP but they rarely seem to advertise this asset.

'Classic' oils tend to have around 1000ppm ZDDP (Halfords, Millars etc), this is a good amount, yet the ester based performance oils often have even higher levels to deal with the wear during competition use and have up to 1400ppm. Oils like Silkolene Comp4 20w-50 fully synthetic fall into this category and this is ideal for the RV8. Any more then 1400ppm and its not really going to achieve anything more.

In my opinion for maximun protection and long life there is nothing better than oils such as Silolene Comp4 20w-50. The disadvantage is these oils cost more. If you intend to carry out regular oil changes then there is nothing wrong with the cheaper Halford Classic or Millars Classic 20w-50 type oils.

Coops wrote:just done a search,
that right its a motorbike engine oil?

Yes its a bike engine oil, what difference that makes I don't know. What I do know is you cant use some car oils in a bike engine because they have a wet clutch and it makes the clutch slip. To me that means they have more friction modifiers in them than bike oils do.

For my 2p worth, I think bike oils have more anti foaming agents in them, the reason for this is when I used to put car engine oil in my honda 125 (correct viscosity but car oil) it used to chuck a whole sump of the stuff out the exhaust in about 6-700 miles, while bike oil would last about 2500 miles. You could see the car oil had foamed up by looking in the site glass, looked like shaving foam .
Best regards
Mike

A word of warning. NEVER run an engine in on Synthetic oil, this is a big no no. You must use a Petrolium based engine oil, period.

With ref to Valvoline oils, Turbo V5 is a mineral oil for road use, thus it has no Zinc content so I always add a bottle of Comp Cams additive with every oil change throughout the engines lifetime.

Valvoline VR1 is a racing oil and so it already has a zinc content so no need for the additive.

Hope this helps

Phil

on running my engine in im using halfords cheap 15/40 but i have to put in 1/2ltr of comp cam engine break in oil due to the fact that real steal with not warranty my high lift cam 238 because it needs the zinc in the oil to wear cam in..Will be soon started for the first time,20 minutes at 2000/2500 revs,oil then will be chucked and 20/50 put in,not sure which yet

As a matter of interest, what was the last oil specced by LR before the RV8 was discontinued?

Rock oil, do a mineral 20/50 this also has the required ZDDP plus other anti wear properties

For my 2p worth! I have tried many makes and grades over the last 10 years .. nothing seems to work as well as Valvoline VR1!

It's service time for my 2000 Range Rover P38. The service sheet specifies 10W/40, which is fine - but I want to use one with a high zinc content.

Does such an oil exist off-the-shelf? or do I have to stick in an additive?

Thanks,

Chris.