RV8 engine info
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RV8 engine info
Here we are again more help and information needed, hope someone can advise.
I have a RV8-42D engine, 4.0 litre (no distriduter front cover) which is a brand new service block, going into my Westfield with Edlebrock carb and manifold.
The problem is as i understand it the oil pickup pipe comes from the front cover into the sump. I have on this engine another what appears to be a oil pickup hole in the bottom of the block about half way along one side. I cannot see what it would be used for it joins the oil galery in the block. Maybe it needs to be blanked off. I think the older 3.9 used to have its oil pickup here. Hope someone can help me.
C:\Documents and Settings\User\My Documents\My Car\4.0L Engine bottom end.jpg
Thanks
I have a RV8-42D engine, 4.0 litre (no distriduter front cover) which is a brand new service block, going into my Westfield with Edlebrock carb and manifold.
The problem is as i understand it the oil pickup pipe comes from the front cover into the sump. I have on this engine another what appears to be a oil pickup hole in the bottom of the block about half way along one side. I cannot see what it would be used for it joins the oil galery in the block. Maybe it needs to be blanked off. I think the older 3.9 used to have its oil pickup here. Hope someone can help me.
C:\Documents and Settings\User\My Documents\My Car\4.0L Engine bottom end.jpg
Thanks
Kit car builder, and interested in cnc machining, hobby wise and business.
All the blocks (old or new) have the necessary maching / galleries for the old style oil pickup which was a strainer fixed to the block half-way along one side, then using the gallery to the front cover.
The later front covers completely ignored this gallery and used a long tube from the front cover to the pickup.
Image is a late (46) block with early type pickup + front cover (Range Rover classic style)
I don't seem to have a pic of the later timing cover type arrangement.
You don't need to blank anything off if you use the long pickup pipe coming directly from the timing cover.
Chris.
The later front covers completely ignored this gallery and used a long tube from the front cover to the pickup.
Image is a late (46) block with early type pickup + front cover (Range Rover classic style)
I don't seem to have a pic of the later timing cover type arrangement.
You don't need to blank anything off if you use the long pickup pipe coming directly from the timing cover.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
RV8 engine info
Great thanks for the info. i will be useing the long pickup comming from the timing cover.
Thanks for your response.
Best wishes
Thanks for your response.
Best wishes
Kit car builder, and interested in cnc machining, hobby wise and business.
Carbs belong back in the dark ages.
Its completely nonsensical to install an ECU to run the coilpacks and not use it to also run EFI.
Better starting, better drivability, better torque and power spread, better fuel economy, etc etc etc.
Do the job properly the first time round and you'll have a much better final product.
Its completely nonsensical to install an ECU to run the coilpacks and not use it to also run EFI.
Better starting, better drivability, better torque and power spread, better fuel economy, etc etc etc.
Do the job properly the first time round and you'll have a much better final product.
I beg to differ.
Full fuel injection on a road car is one thing. On a vehicle where the engine will be run in mud slurry is completely different. Water will get everywhere, and if your connectors are not 100% waterproof, you will eventually get corrosion and reliability problems. I know, my Landie was EFi once.
So the basic principle in a vehicle like that is keep it simple.
However, with the ignition system, removing the distributor is a good move because the HT distribution system doesn't like water. So switching to coil packs is a net improvement.
So IMHO, coil packs + carbs is about as robust as you'll get on an off-roader.
Chris.
Full fuel injection on a road car is one thing. On a vehicle where the engine will be run in mud slurry is completely different. Water will get everywhere, and if your connectors are not 100% waterproof, you will eventually get corrosion and reliability problems. I know, my Landie was EFi once.
So the basic principle in a vehicle like that is keep it simple.
However, with the ignition system, removing the distributor is a good move because the HT distribution system doesn't like water. So switching to coil packs is a net improvement.
So IMHO, coil packs + carbs is about as robust as you'll get on an off-roader.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
There are guys on the landrover forum i use (LR4x4) who've converted their motors to megasquirt EFI explicitly to make it waterproof, and had the entire engine submerged running squirted EFI just fine.
Infact the only problem i recall they had was the 'squirt jumping back into "warm up enrichment" due to the water cooling the CTS enough for it to register a low temperature, when the entire engine was submerged in water...
Infact the only problem i recall they had was the 'squirt jumping back into "warm up enrichment" due to the water cooling the CTS enough for it to register a low temperature, when the entire engine was submerged in water...