The V8 Owners Forum -

Moly lube is the black stuff with Molibdinium disulphide in it, cam lube is normally red or white depending on how long the assembled engine will be in storage. If you need some ARP thread lube I probably have a sachet of the stuff at home, let me know an address via PM and I'll have a look tonight.
Mike

No, nothing like it.

Its basically just Moly grease ( CV's )


Cam lube is more like a thick gear oil.

Can I not just use grease then? I have put the studs in by hand and will nip them up lightly with an allen key, and only have to torque up the nuts but can't see why they have to sell you a "special" grease to do so!

topcatproduction wrote:Can I not just use grease then? I have put the studs in by hand and will nip them up lightly with an allen key, and only have to torque up the nuts but can't see why they have to sell you a "special" grease to do so!

ARP fasteners always come with ARP Lube


Do you use the same grease in every aspect of your car ? I'd hope not. And they clearly give instructions for torques with motor oil too. What is the problem ?

I got the ARP's from someone on here a while ago as they got merlin heads and wouldn't fit- hence why no paperwork or lube, so I have no idea what different figures or advice they quote on the packet when you buy them new!

Just picked up a new sets of studs for my Rover heads, and it states 85 ft lbs x 3, i think its a little high considering its an Alu block.

Any ideas?

Thx,

Jim

jimbob wrote:Just picked up a new sets of studs for my Rover heads, and it states 85 ft lbs x 3, i think its a little high considering its an Alu block.

Any ideas?

Thx,

Jim

The studs are 7/16" anyway. So as long as there is plenty of thread engagement, it will be fine.

Subarus use 11mm studs and they go to 85 no problem. LS engines are also 11mm studs, and use the same figure.

The torque they state is pretty much directly related to fastener diameter.

Think I only did mine to 80lbft though lol

Evening.

Just got my re-bored block back from Realsteel. Also brought a set of ARP main cap & big end studs/nuts and bolts for 4.6 big ends. Also a set of ARP X-bolts.

My question:- Are these ARP studs etc ok to use? I have heard that when using them I need to get the crank journals line bored, I just cannot see why, using these studs must surely be a good thing. Des Hammills book isn't clear, and David Hardcastle doesn't go into detail either way.

Lastly, can I use the torque values in the LR workshop manual?

thanks Mark

Got all my ARP studs in and tightened up.

75 ft/lbs for the mains, 90 ft/lbs for the rear bearing.

40 ft/lbs for rod bolts. All with ARP grease.

Must have worked ok because everything turns smoothly and 0.002" between rods and crank end float at 0.002".

Quite pleased.

Now on to the heads.

I know this is an old post but ARP makes head studs for new and old rover engines. there are different numbers for 3.5, 3.9 4.2 than 4.0, 4.6 the later being longer.

I put main studs in mine because when I got the motor the caps had been fretting . Line bored the block . The head studs I fitted as per instructions ( no lube supplied so I used moly sulfide assy grease) and 2 or 3 studs have pulled up the threads . When getting close to max torque things suddenly got loose giving the impression it had pulled the stud out. I leaned on it a bit more and I did reach max torque ,but what to do now .....run the motor and hope for the best or find another block. I used composite gasket.

Why would you need a new block - if the studs have pulled just put a "thread sert" in and redo. (do not use heli coils as they are not strong enough (or at least the metal in the block is not strong enough.

Definitely remove the heads and take the studs out and check the threads and go from there.

That was a good reply as I was just pricing up a helicoil tool and inserts to do the whole block. The thing that gives me the shits is how to make sure the hole is drilled and tapped square ( doesn't fit in my drill press )
Im not surprised they pulled as the block thread is 7/16 unc and the nuts on the stud are 7/16 unf .
Should one slightly counter sink the stud holes?
Thanks garrycol.

Dont use helicoils as they will pull out. For about a third of the price of buying kits to make the repair just google a Mobile Thread Repair Service near you and they will come and do it for you - always a top class job.

Here is mine. Garry

Also - if the studs pulled out you must have over torqued them - I would not go over 90ft ibs and make sure the threads on the nut end are lubricated as well as the threads that go into the head.