ARP Torques

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kiwicar
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Post by kiwicar » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:20 pm

Moly lube is the black stuff with Molibdinium disulphide in it, cam lube is normally red or white depending on how long the assembled engine will be in storage. If you need some ARP thread lube I probably have a sachet of the stuff at home, let me know an address via PM and I'll have a look tonight.
Mike


poppet valves rule!

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stevieturbo
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Post by stevieturbo » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:26 pm

No, nothing like it.

Its basically just Moly grease ( CV's )


Cam lube is more like a thick gear oil.
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:37 pm

Can I not just use grease then? I have put the studs in by hand and will nip them up lightly with an allen key, and only have to torque up the nuts but can't see why they have to sell you a "special" grease to do so!

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stevieturbo
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Post by stevieturbo » Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:46 pm

topcatproduction wrote:Can I not just use grease then? I have put the studs in by hand and will nip them up lightly with an allen key, and only have to torque up the nuts but can't see why they have to sell you a "special" grease to do so!
ARP fasteners always come with ARP Lube


Do you use the same grease in every aspect of your car ? I'd hope not. And they clearly give instructions for torques with motor oil too. What is the problem ?
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom » Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:20 pm

I got the ARP's from someone on here a while ago as they got merlin heads and wouldn't fit- hence why no paperwork or lube, so I have no idea what different figures or advice they quote on the packet when you buy them new!

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jimbob
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Post by jimbob » Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:38 pm

Just picked up a new sets of studs for my Rover heads, and it states 85 ft lbs x 3, i think its a little high considering its an Alu block.

Any ideas?

Thx,

Jim

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stevieturbo
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Post by stevieturbo » Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:43 pm

jimbob wrote:Just picked up a new sets of studs for my Rover heads, and it states 85 ft lbs x 3, i think its a little high considering its an Alu block.

Any ideas?

Thx,

Jim
The studs are 7/16" anyway. So as long as there is plenty of thread engagement, it will be fine.

Subarus use 11mm studs and they go to 85 no problem. LS engines are also 11mm studs, and use the same figure.

The torque they state is pretty much directly related to fastener diameter.

Think I only did mine to 80lbft though lol
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0

Dixie6789
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ARP bolts.

Post by Dixie6789 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:15 pm

Evening.

Just got my re-bored block back from Realsteel. Also brought a set of ARP main cap & big end studs/nuts and bolts for 4.6 big ends. Also a set of ARP X-bolts.

My question:- Are these ARP studs etc ok to use? I have heard that when using them I need to get the crank journals line bored, I just cannot see why, using these studs must surely be a good thing. Des Hammills book isn't clear, and David Hardcastle doesn't go into detail either way.

Lastly, can I use the torque values in the LR workshop manual?

thanks Mark
Mark

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Post by Dixie6789 » Tue Mar 25, 2014 11:07 pm

Got all my ARP studs in and tightened up.

75 ft/lbs for the mains, 90 ft/lbs for the rear bearing.

40 ft/lbs for rod bolts. All with ARP grease.

Must have worked ok because everything turns smoothly and 0.002" between rods and crank end float at 0.002".

Quite pleased.

Now on to the heads.
Mark

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arp stud

Post by drowssap » Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:43 pm

I know this is an old post but ARP makes head studs for new and old rover engines. there are different numbers for 3.5, 3.9 4.2 than 4.0, 4.6 the later being longer.

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