3.5 Engine rebuild
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3.5 Engine rebuild
Hello everyone!
I'm finishing my complete 3.5 rebuild.
So couple of questions, has anyone more tips & tricks and do and don'ts. before I tottaly mess up
Tommorow I will adjust the tappet preload, and will also fill the oilpump with grease.
I will problably use the valvoline vr1 20W50 oil. Should I also use this oil for running in the engine?
More tips on first start and running in?
I'll post some pictures when I figure out how to do so
Thanks in advance,
Greetings Aaron
I'm finishing my complete 3.5 rebuild.
So couple of questions, has anyone more tips & tricks and do and don'ts. before I tottaly mess up
Tommorow I will adjust the tappet preload, and will also fill the oilpump with grease.
I will problably use the valvoline vr1 20W50 oil. Should I also use this oil for running in the engine?
More tips on first start and running in?
I'll post some pictures when I figure out how to do so
Thanks in advance,
Greetings Aaron
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
The BL manual says Vaseline rather than grease for the oil pump. I suppose it might dissolve in oil rather more easily?
I'd also turn it over on the starter (plugs out) until the oil pressure light goes out.
I'd also turn it over on the starter (plugs out) until the oil pressure light goes out.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
+1 for Vaseline (if you can spare some)it is petroleum jelly and so disolves in the oil, don't know where grease would end up.
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Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
And lashings of bacon
I wish I was young again , Id be heaps smarter than the first time
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Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
Where are you? If you're close to Harpenden I can lend you the tool to spin the pump using an electric drill.
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
I've always primed the oil by pulling the distributor and spinning the pump drive with a long bolt with a slot ground in the head.
Chris.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
Thanks for the tips guys!
Currently adjusting the tappet preload
Currently adjusting the tappet preload
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
That's pretty much what the "special tool" is. Even with that though I've never been able to prime the pump without first packing with Vaseline, possibly my remote filter does not help.
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
A remote filter is handy because you can pour oil down the hoses to fill the pump before trying to prime it.
Chris.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
The remove the dizzy and prime the oil pump with an electric drill is a MUST! Put the ignition on and wait for the orange light to go off as you spin up the pump. Take it from some one who knows the cost of that pump not priming quickly!
You can use a 12mm socket and a long socket extension.
Did you check that the pressure relief piston in the pump moves freely. They are renown for picking up.
If the engine doesn't start quickly it is likely the distributor is 180 degrees out. Remove it and move the pick up arm half a turn. Try again.
These engines are known for airlocks. Switch the internal heater on full blast. Start up with the radiator or expansion tank cap off and wait for all the air bubbles to stop. Put the cap back on and rev the engine.
Also, run the engine at 2500 rpm four times for 5 minutes each. Avoid tickover during this initial phase! Then drive car to put load on the engine to bed the pistons; all as recommended by professional engine builders.
If in doubt, switch it off!
Good luck!
You can use a 12mm socket and a long socket extension.
Did you check that the pressure relief piston in the pump moves freely. They are renown for picking up.
If the engine doesn't start quickly it is likely the distributor is 180 degrees out. Remove it and move the pick up arm half a turn. Try again.
These engines are known for airlocks. Switch the internal heater on full blast. Start up with the radiator or expansion tank cap off and wait for all the air bubbles to stop. Put the cap back on and rev the engine.
Also, run the engine at 2500 rpm four times for 5 minutes each. Avoid tickover during this initial phase! Then drive car to put load on the engine to bed the pistons; all as recommended by professional engine builders.
If in doubt, switch it off!
Good luck!
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!DaxLaxV8 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 17, 2019 5:02 pmThe remove the dizzy and prime the oil pump with an electric drill is a MUST! Put the ignition on and wait for the orange light to go off as you spin up the pump. Take it from some one who knows the cost of that pump not priming quickly!
You can use a 12mm socket and a long socket extension.
Did you check that the pressure relief piston in the pump moves freely. They are renown for picking up.
If the engine doesn't start quickly it is likely the distributor is 180 degrees out. Remove it and move the pick up arm half a turn. Try again.
These engines are known for airlocks. Switch the internal heater on full blast. Start up with the radiator or expansion tank cap off and wait for all the air bubbles to stop. Put the cap back on and rev the engine.
Also, run the engine at 2500 rpm four times for 5 minutes each. Avoid tickover during this initial phase! Then drive car to put load on the engine to bed the pistons; all as recommended by professional engine builders.
If in doubt, switch it off!
Good luck!
If everything goes as planned, the first start up will be this weekend
Re: 3.5 Engine rebuild
Aaron
How did the start up go?
Carl
How did the start up go?
Carl