Hi,
I've been test fitting my rebuilt 3.5 v8 going into my 78 MGB. I'm using Clive Wheatley's alloy mounts and rubber mountings.
I'm struggling to get the bolts attached to the rubber mounting to align with the small gaps on the engine mounts
I'm using the thicker rubber mounting on the right side.
I tried swapping the rubber mountings around inside the alloy mounting to move the position of the bolt but it still won't align.
Is it better to do this without the exhaust headers bolted on and stick those on later?
Should I widen the grooves on the engine mount?
Is this just a matter of persevarence?
Many thx
Engine Mount Alignment
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- Ian Anderson
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- Location: Edinburgh
Have you tried both ways?
Attach to frame and then lower engine on?
And
Attach to engine and then lower engine and mounts as one?
Or attach losely and slowly drop engine and align holes then tighten slowly drop a bit tighten drop etc
Ian
Attach to frame and then lower engine on?
And
Attach to engine and then lower engine and mounts as one?
Or attach losely and slowly drop engine and align holes then tighten slowly drop a bit tighten drop etc
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
I've only tried attached to the engine so far - that's worth a go.
I can get one side fairly near but the other side is 100mm away from the slot.
With the exhaust headers bolted on, there is very little wiggle room between the header at the brake fittings. It would be easier to take the headers off but I'm not sure how easy they would be to refit once the engine is in place.
I can get one side fairly near but the other side is 100mm away from the slot.
With the exhaust headers bolted on, there is very little wiggle room between the header at the brake fittings. It would be easier to take the headers off but I'm not sure how easy they would be to refit once the engine is in place.
1978 MGB Roadster
Converting to V8
Converting to V8
Aspira, follow this and they'll fit.aspira wrote:I've only tried attached to the engine so far - that's worth a go.
I can get one side fairly near but the other side is 100mm away from the slot.
With the exhaust headers bolted on, there is very little wiggle room between the header at the brake fittings. It would be easier to take the headers off but I'm not sure how easy they would be to refit once the engine is in place.
1. Do not fit manifolds first, especially if using std RV8 inner wing hole size. Drop manifolds into wing holes and tape to wings [cover inner wings with bubble wrap to protect paint] ensuring clear access.
2. Fit engine mounting plates to engine.
3. Loosely fit mounting rubbers to chassis mounts - very loosely fit the washers and nuts to the lower mounting threads [under chassis mounts]
4. Lower engine assembly - you will find this method will get you very close to the rubber upper threads - it's now just the case of carefully maneuvering the engine to grab the threads [sometimes easier said than done].
5. Loosely fit manifolds
6. Now you need to line up, centre and level the engine [lower mounting rubbers nuts not fully tightened] - once happy with fit [gearbox and prop' central/prop' as near to the horizontal as possible!] finally tighten all mounting nuts, then re-check engine position.
Be patient with this process, it's often a pain in the arse and requires much fiddling in confined space. Use long thin pieces of wood to help maneuver engine and use as chocks if necessary. Also, do not fit an engine balance bar until you are 100% happy with engine and driveline fit.
Do it a couple of times and you'll be an old hand at this; good luck.