rubber sump gasket
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- Seight-V8
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rubber sump gasket
hello all,
Anybody used one of these over v8 rubber sump gaskets?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-V8-NEW- ... XQyFFTkw5x
I've tried cork, cork with RTV, just RTV....and eventually they all leak.
These aren't cheap but might be the fix.....what do you think?
cheers
scott
Anybody used one of these over v8 rubber sump gaskets?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-V8-NEW- ... XQyFFTkw5x
I've tried cork, cork with RTV, just RTV....and eventually they all leak.
These aren't cheap but might be the fix.....what do you think?
cheers
scott
I use a rubber gasket, I also made tiny spacers out of metal tube that prevented the gasket from getting over compressed, from memory the spacers actually passed through the bolt holes in the sump. They allow the sump bolts to be fully tightened without the gasket getting so compressed that it spilts apart around its bolt holes. I can't remember where I got the gasket from, maybe ebay?
On the subject of leaking sump gaskets, I suffered for years from this (not me personally) until I discovered that on a cross bolted engine you need to put sealer on the threads of the sump bolts that coincide with the cross bolt positions. Otherwise main bearing oil pressure can find it's way along the cross bolt and down the sump bolt thread.
Denis
Denis
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Sump gasket.
Where does it say it is rubber?
I purchased one of these a couple of years ago. When I received it I queried the material with the supplier, as I expected it to be similar to the material that the upgraded rocker cover gaskets are made of, as it looks like.
Do not know what material it is made of, possibly compressed board of some sort, it is a lot thicker.
Fitted it to my new engine but have not fitted it to the car yet so cannot comment on its sealing capability.
I purchased one of these a couple of years ago. When I received it I queried the material with the supplier, as I expected it to be similar to the material that the upgraded rocker cover gaskets are made of, as it looks like.
Do not know what material it is made of, possibly compressed board of some sort, it is a lot thicker.
Fitted it to my new engine but have not fitted it to the car yet so cannot comment on its sealing capability.
- Seight-V8
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you might be right about the rubber.....maybe just me as it looks like rubber....
probably just a gasket material that does not compress as much as the cork ones do....
I am sure I would like to find a sump gasket just like the rocker cover ones, that are rubber and have spacers in the bolt holes.....
But that just a dream maybe....
I do have a cork one at the moment, with a tube of rtv for the rebuild, nice info about the thread sealant on the mains holes though.
regards
scott
probably just a gasket material that does not compress as much as the cork ones do....
I am sure I would like to find a sump gasket just like the rocker cover ones, that are rubber and have spacers in the bolt holes.....
But that just a dream maybe....
I do have a cork one at the moment, with a tube of rtv for the rebuild, nice info about the thread sealant on the mains holes though.
regards
scott
- Seight-V8
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Well done another search on ebay....
and this came up....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-P6-3500 ... 1537750568
This one is really rubber this time, so this might be the one to try.
Only problem then is not over tightening the sump bolts.
regards
scott
and this came up....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-P6-3500 ... 1537750568
This one is really rubber this time, so this might be the one to try.
Only problem then is not over tightening the sump bolts.
regards
scott
- Seight-V8
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I think my biggest problem is probably that my trap door sump flange is not as flat as it should be, all that welding has warped the flange along the length.
I've tried to flatten it, but its too strong with all the welding around it.
So a rubber gasket might help in my case.
Willing to try it anyway.
regards
scott
I've tried to flatten it, but its too strong with all the welding around it.
So a rubber gasket might help in my case.
Willing to try it anyway.
regards
scott
I have never had a sump gasket leak?
I have always used Cork gaskets as well. I'm thinking that I must have now fitted 60 Rover V8 sump gaskets on new built engines as well as my race engines that come apart frequently.
My fave option is to make sure the sump flange is flat to start with. I do this by placing the sump on a flat surface and dressing the flange down flat with a hammer.
I then make sure the sump flange is clean and oil free before using Right Stuff sealant on the flange so I can bed the cork gasket down onto it. I then turn the sump upside down and rest it on a piece of chipboard or MDF so I can put a few bricks on it overnight to make sure the gasket gets bonded flat onto the flange.
The following day or the next weekend whenever I can get back to it the gasket is now firmly sealed onto the sunp flange. Then I make sure the flange on the block is celan and oil free as well. When I'm ready to fit the sump I use Right Stuff as well for final fitting. BUT! I only nip the bolts up gently until I see some sealant oozing out of the gasket. I then leave this another 24 hours to cure before I finally nip up the sump bolts.
This sealant is very good. Its not cheap, but it works
NOW THE DOWN SIDE!!!
If you have done the job right the sump WILL NOT leak. But when you come to remove the sump the next time you will need to remove all the bolts and then run a stanley blade all round to break the seal and get the sump off. You will then need to spend a couple of hours cleaning the mating faces before you can re fit a new gasket.
To be honest!! If you make sure both mating faces are clean and oil free you could fit a sump with no gasket and just use Right Stuff and it WILL seal ???
If you have a distorted sump flange you just need to make sure that you use enough Right Stuff sealer to ensure it fills the gaps and oozes out when you nip it up. Then 24 hours later do a final nip up and all will be good.
I have always used Cork gaskets as well. I'm thinking that I must have now fitted 60 Rover V8 sump gaskets on new built engines as well as my race engines that come apart frequently.
My fave option is to make sure the sump flange is flat to start with. I do this by placing the sump on a flat surface and dressing the flange down flat with a hammer.
I then make sure the sump flange is clean and oil free before using Right Stuff sealant on the flange so I can bed the cork gasket down onto it. I then turn the sump upside down and rest it on a piece of chipboard or MDF so I can put a few bricks on it overnight to make sure the gasket gets bonded flat onto the flange.
The following day or the next weekend whenever I can get back to it the gasket is now firmly sealed onto the sunp flange. Then I make sure the flange on the block is celan and oil free as well. When I'm ready to fit the sump I use Right Stuff as well for final fitting. BUT! I only nip the bolts up gently until I see some sealant oozing out of the gasket. I then leave this another 24 hours to cure before I finally nip up the sump bolts.
This sealant is very good. Its not cheap, but it works
NOW THE DOWN SIDE!!!
If you have done the job right the sump WILL NOT leak. But when you come to remove the sump the next time you will need to remove all the bolts and then run a stanley blade all round to break the seal and get the sump off. You will then need to spend a couple of hours cleaning the mating faces before you can re fit a new gasket.
To be honest!! If you make sure both mating faces are clean and oil free you could fit a sump with no gasket and just use Right Stuff and it WILL seal ???
If you have a distorted sump flange you just need to make sure that you use enough Right Stuff sealer to ensure it fills the gaps and oozes out when you nip it up. Then 24 hours later do a final nip up and all will be good.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
Very interesting... I have oil dripping down a few of the bolts on my cross bolted engine.On the subject of leaking sump gaskets, I suffered for years from this (not me personally) until I discovered that on a cross bolted engine you need to put sealer on the threads of the sump bolts that coincide with the cross bolt positions. Otherwise main bearing oil pressure can find it's way along the cross bolt and down the sump bolt thread.
Think i'll have to whip the sump off and re-fit.
Tom.
Dax Rush 4.6 supercharged V8 MSII
I would initially try just taking the bolts out one by one and putting some sealer on the threads. I think just 4 coincide (2 each side)with the crossbolts.SuperV8 wrote:Very interesting... I have oil dripping down a few of the bolts on my cross bolted engine.On the subject of leaking sump gaskets, I suffered for years from this (not me personally) until I discovered that on a cross bolted engine you need to put sealer on the threads of the sump bolts that coincide with the cross bolt positions. Otherwise main bearing oil pressure can find it's way along the cross bolt and down the sump bolt thread.
Think i'll have to whip the sump off and re-fit.
Tom.
- richardpope50
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Yes, I used one from Classeparts after looking for ages for one that they claimed did not leak. I think it is rubber.
I did all my bolts up to the correct torque setting. It leaked a bit so in the end I tightened all bolts to 'firm / quite firm' with a small socket set. It did not leak for two years but now there is a very slight leak from between the sump and the bell housing plate. It does not drip on the garage floor. Still I wipe the oil off every so often but wish I did not have to do this.
I did all my bolts up to the correct torque setting. It leaked a bit so in the end I tightened all bolts to 'firm / quite firm' with a small socket set. It did not leak for two years but now there is a very slight leak from between the sump and the bell housing plate. It does not drip on the garage floor. Still I wipe the oil off every so often but wish I did not have to do this.
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
- richardpope50
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