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Defender v8 - Battery Charging Failure when warm

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 6:06 pm
by mikejones66
Hi Newbie

Have bought a very good 80% complete project a great new build but with a known problem, need some electrical expertise.

Defender diesel now with a 3.9 Rover EFi V8 -

1. Car was a diesel Landrover defender and has a TD5 wiring loom in place for lights, dash, tow pack etc

First note - no dash lights when you turn ignition on - no oil, power, indicators light, main beam etc ? )

From cold car is perfect starts easy and moves off well after 20 mins you start to notice speedo fails - then fuel gauge fails and radio power loss the car comes to a stop - battery flat

2. The v8 has its own ECU serving the V8 wiring loom ( only link I can see between the two looms is the temp sensor and fuel guage - a brand new alternator shows its charging the battery when running from a cold start with a meter across it - but when running for a short while the alternator stops charging the battery followed by engine shut down and fall battery.

Jump pack on the car and it starts straight away and runs well -

Ideas and solutions welcome as I suspect this is not the first time this engine transfer has been done -

many thanks for your anticipated advise for a newbie






:?:

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 6:41 pm
by ChrisJC
So the charging circuit is completely unconnected with the EFi system as far as I know.

The alternator 'large' terminal is just connected to battery positive, and the 'small' terminal is connected via the charge light on the dash to the ignition switch.

Are you able to confirm that is how it is wired?

Chris.

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:28 pm
by mikejones66
Many thanks for your reply - I have no dash lights - so maybe that's it ?

I can test out the wiring alternator to dash and come back to you tomorrow -

But if that is the case why would the alternator charge when the motor is cold and then stop after 15 mins when the engine warms up ?

Appreciate you taking the time to reply

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:37 pm
by ChrisJC
mikejones66 wrote:Many thanks for your reply - I have no dash lights - so maybe that's it ?

I can test out the wiring alternator to dash and come back to you tomorrow -

But if that is the case why would the alternator charge when the motor is cold and then stop after 15 mins when the engine warms up ?

Appreciate you taking the time to reply
In theory, if the 'small' terminal isn't connected, the alternator might still charge. But I wouldn't rely on it.

It is 100% worth you getting the dash charge light to work as expected, then all will probably be OK.

Chris.

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 9:01 pm
by mikejones66
Ok thanks that's the priority then

Appreciate it Chris

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:15 am
by DEVONMAN
I would check out the battery terminals and the battery itself and the earth from the battery to the engine block / chassis.

Good luck,
Denis

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:16 am
by DaveEFI
On most alternators, the ignition warning light circuit is part of the charge circuit. If the bulb blows, it won't charge. Since yours appears not to be connected or whatever, that's probably the reason.

When you say it was checked and was showing a charge with a meter, what was the reading?

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 10:47 am
by ChrisJC
DaveEFI wrote:On most alternators, the ignition warning light circuit is part of the charge circuit. If the bulb blows, it won't charge. Since yours appears not to be connected or whatever, that's probably the reason.

When you say it was checked and was showing a charge with a meter, what was the reading?
On all the instrument clusters I have looked at, there is a resistor in parallel with the charge light. I presume the idea is that if the bulb blows, you still have a functioning charging system.

Chris.

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 12:09 pm
by DaveEFI
Yes - a parallel resistor is used on some. But it's not universal - my SD1 doesn't have one. So you'd need to check the schematic for the particular vehicle.

But if none of the warning lights are working, sounds like something is unplugged or whatever. And likely the resistor, if fitted.