The V8 Owners Forum -

GDCOBRA it's a curved release bearing on a flat finger plate so all ok there. Thanks Sam

Yeah, I see it better now, forget my last post.
Can you see what angle the release arm is at through the peep hole? When the bearing contacts the plate, looking at your last photo it doesn't look like it would be too bad.

After speaking to Rpi they stay to simply shave a bit of the bell housing where it's catching the arm but I would prefer to at least try and bring the pivot post out a bit, does anyone know where I might get an adjustable pivot post from? Thanks Sam

GDCorba this is it with slave removed so with slave fitted it's pretty much right angle to the gearbox input shaft

Thanks Sam

You can just see where it's catching on the casting to the middle left side of the fork. Bolts are further back than they look

I read somewhere that different height pivots exist.
R380 and SD1 pivots may be different???
I once removed the gearbox from a factory TVR and there was a 3mm thick washer under the pivot.

V8dax2017 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:28 pm

20180304_181809.jpg

GDCorba this is it with slave removed so with slave fitted it's pretty much right angle to the gearbox input shaft

Thanks Sam

Photos can be deceiving but I would say that the fork needs to be at the angle shown in the photo when the bearing is just in contact with the clutch, ie move the lot forwards with a taller pivot

Thanks Devonman I can confirm there is two heights of pivot, I have the taller on order so hoping that cures my issue, I will be checking before engine install this time , can anyone confirm the cured bearing im using against that plate is correct as helix are taking forever to get back. Thanks Sam

V8dax2017 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:25 am

Thanks Devonman I can confirm there is two heights of pivot, I have the taller on order so hoping that cures my issue, I will be checking before engine install this time , can anyone confirm the cured bearing im using against that plate is correct as helix are taking forever to get back. Thanks Sam

Curved faced release bearings are normally used with flat fingered clutches. This is to allow a slight rolling action as the curved face pushes the fingers forwards thus reducing wear. In your case there is a pad attached to the fingers so no rolling action will exist or be needed. A flat release bearing is normally used with a clutch with a flat pad or a clutch with curved fingers. In your case the peak of the curved surface of the bearing will always push on the pad at the same circumference point (diameter) and if the bearing drags this could cause wear at the tip of the curved bearing surface or wear a circular groove into the pad. This wear is likely to be minor and still allow a lengthy clutch life.

Hope the taller pivot does the trick.

Thanks very much for the information, I spoke to Rpi and they confirmed they haven't had a problem with the arm touching the bell bit that's due to them running central hydraulic release bearings on their install, he also confirmed as you have just stated that you can run both flat and curved bearings on my plate, I have opted for my curved as it's brand new and also it's an all metal unit instead of the part plastic that a lot of flat ones are.
Many thanks for your help

I read somewhere that different height pivots exist.

There are three different ones that I know of:

UKC6 SD1 2300/2600
UKC13 SD1 3500/TR8
UKC1774 TR7

Thanks very much for all the inputs, I took it all apart last night to find the clutch fork was actually clearing all it should In the bell housing and the fault actually lies with the cover plate, the fingers are only able to move forward 5mm before they but hard up against the friction plate hence what was stopping the pedal moving and not allowing disengagement. RPI are currently looking into it.

Thanks Sam

V8dax2017 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:40 pm

Thanks very much for all the inputs, I took it all apart last night to find the clutch fork was actually clearing all it should In the bell housing and the fault actually lies with the cover plate, the fingers are only able to move forward 5mm before they but hard up against the friction plate hence what was stopping the pedal moving and not allowing disengagement. RPI are currently looking into it.

Thanks Sam

Could be the plate is too thick for the cover causing the fingers to initially sit too far forwards. Plate and cover mismatch no doubt. RPI tend to just sell you what they have in stock.

Update the problem was finally found, the cover plate and friction plate were not correctly matched meaning the metal plate in the centre of the cover plate was actually making contact with the friction plate drive spline before being able to disengage.