The V8 Owners Forum -

if you are using an early 3.9, post intermediate front cover will not fit the 4.6 sump, I think a small spacer is needed on the crank too?? if youswap the sumps over.
what type of oil pump are you using? with or without dissy??

You can easily get bad torque reading from dirty holes, even a bit of water at the bottom of the threaded hole will cause it to hydraulic, being over generous when oiling the threads can cause similar problems.

Yep, I would go 9" the only way your HP will go is up, start with strong foundations, a 9"would probably work out cheaper in the long run, other than strength, the availability of off the shelf shafts, the choice of ratios is about the best you are going to find, sometimes worth buying one new from ...

Yep a 8" will go that narrow, might need to re tube it as most 8" have stepped tubes, Aftermarket shafts would be needed, either Hausers or Robinson Race cars can supply custom spec shafts. Personally i would think a 8" would be marginal with 500hp, especia;;y if you are running either slicke or big...

A while ago I built a short block 4.6 using Mustang modular overbore flat tops, made by Manley, they cost about £250 + rings, they use the same bore as the stock 4.6 and the pin sizes are slightly smaller so I had my rods bronze bushed. all seemed to work ok, you would need to check crown heights

Panhard rods should be as long as possible to prevent body jack caused by the arc that the bar runs when the suspension moves up and down. they should be run as close to parallel with the axle when the car is on the floor at ride height. When we used to circuit race care with a banjo type axle we of...

no reason why a watts cant be mounted flat on the bottom of the diff casing, most of the broadspeed saloons used this system to lower the roll centre and lower the CoG

One thing that is often omitted when putting the engine back together, it the steel thrower ring this is an important and effective way of getting oil onto the timing gears I think the thrower was only used in early engines with cam driven mechanical fuel pumps and rope front seals. As far as I rec...

would it not be easier to redrill the hubs, I have done it several times on different cars,

One thing that is often omitted when putting the engine back together, it the steel thrower ring this is an important and effective way of getting oil onto the timing gears

My mate has one in his Standard Estate, cracking engine, very very revvy, sounds the nuts, I would go full aftermarket electronics on the injection, I think they are now available in RWD configurations now so sourcing a gearbox and flywheel is now a lot easier, my mate had to have a flywheel made an...

NO, they used to break with standard Morris Minors and a bit of spirited driving, you will need to look for something a bit stronger, Plan in advance, without a doubt you will think bigger and better later, so its worth building it to last, nothing more demoralising having to change bits because the...

The thing that obviously springs to mind is the other bonus of running a pumped system, either on the diff or gearbox, both run in a bath of oil, both have drag for that very reason, a spray lube, dry sump/evacuated gearbox/diff makes sense, but the downside of that is your cooling medium has been r...

I think I would be replacing all the bearings, for the cost of another compressor bearings would be cheap insurance, Intercooler would be bin fodder if it was mine, I wiped out a very expensive engine years ago by not changing a oil cooler after a minor bearing failure, and reused the cooler cos it ...

Could be the heater pipes