The V8 Owners Forum -

Can you explain what fault could cause one bank to run lean (or whatever)?

Tech Edge is an Australian company. On my unit, the electronics are about the same size as the MS - which most wouldn't want, I'd guess. But that was years ago and they have other designs. If go to their site https://wbo2.com/ they have lots of useful information on positioning the sensor and so on.

The wideband on my SD1 is where downpipes combine into one - back of the gearbox. Once up to heat, the sensor heater never comes on again. MS allows you to dial in compensation for the distance from the exhaust valves. My wideband is a Tech Edge - since back in the day they did self assembly kits. A...

Never really seen the point in dual wideband O2 sensors. As with batch injection, you can't easily alter each bank. And with fully sequential, where you can trim each cylinder, you'd need to know which each cylinder is doing anyway - not just the bank. BTW, IMHO, best to group the injectors by firin...

I'd guess at the factory the pump was packed with petroleum jelly at engine assembly time?

The sump gasket can tear when you remove the front cover.

Hi The current unit is very tired an there is a little horizontal movement in the rotor arm, so is the Lucas 35DM8 4185 suitable for my engine ? thanks Jonathan There are different advance curves dependent on engine spec - CR, etc. Not quite sure how you tell if the spare you have is the same as yo...

The DLM is the later distributor. Don't think up and down movement on the rotor arm matters much - but side to side does.

The priming pulse sent to the pump relay at switch on is automatic. If you are sure that isn't happening by checking at the ECU output (to eliminate the relay and wiring) and you're also sure the ECU has power and ground, there must be an ECU fault, I'd say.

If you've been swapping relays, are you certain you have the correct ones? There are different configurations of 5 pin relays that will fit - but not work correctly. Although, if like the 4 CU, this really just applies to the main one.

Rimmer list 7 propshafts for the SD1, depending on engine and gearbox.

Other thing you need to consider is dead time - the time the injector takes to react to a pulse. If you increase the flow rate, this becomes even more important at idle and low throttle openings.

The pump does get stiff when it builds up enough pressure to operate the pressure release valve.

I have two of them. One came from Lidl, the other is a Mitutoyo. They both work well, but battery life on the Mitutoyo is vastly better, even when left on, which is easy to do. Of the order of years, rather than months on the cheaper one.

Why not simply drill out (by the smallest amount) to a pin size you can get? But IIRC I found a spare pin in my selection box of them, so not a special.