The V8 Owners Forum -

Took the block and caps to a v8 specialist. They think 2 and 3 caps got hot. They are going to investigate if it can be salvaged. So we shall wait and see. They have a couple of ideas as to how to sort it. Fingers crossed.

Ahh crap. I hope that’s not the case. I called a local v8 specialist yesterday. I’m going to drop it off for inspection. He said that it doesn’t sound good but will check it over. If it is warped he said it can be repaired by line boring or similar and gave me recommendations of a company in Dartfor...

When the caps are fully in place you should be able to slide a 2-4 thou feeler gauge between the cap and the block just in the zone where the cross bolts go though without the cross bolt in place. This is ONLY on the starter side of the engine. On the other side of the engine there should be no gap...

sidecar wrote: ↑

Tue May 01, 2018 7:50 pm

Put the caps in the freezer few a few hours before fitting them.

Good tip, thanks.

Thank you. Ill fill them and see what i get.

Caps are supposed to be interference fit into the block. It's like that to stop fretting failure particularly on cap 4 - common failure on 4.2 engines. In contrast to your analysis of 'I think the block is fooked' - it's not, it would be if they were loose though ! Phew good to know. Tried refittin...

Is anyone able to identify these pistons? They came out of a 4.6, but im trying to work out what compression ratio they are as the engine number has been ground off.

It was actually pretty easy, even with the ruined bearings. I know the crank will need a regrind so I think I’ll take it to an engine rebuilders and get them to have a look.

This is what i had to resort to!!!

Finally got the last one out. Wiggles it until I could get some string under it, then suspended it off an engine crane by the string and continued to wiggle it. I think the block is fooked.

Dear all, I recently picked up a 4.6 block and was looking to rebuild it, so started stripping it down. I don’t think it has been too well looked after. All the big end bearings were just about past it and looks like it has got hot. Started removing main caps but found them very difficult to get out...

So the helicoils held? That was not my experience - mine just pulled out when the stud was torqued up. I had to go for a metal insert (what were used before helicoil - springs - were made). They worked really well where the helicoil did not. Garry Yeah helicoil was fine. Not sure it would have done...

All sorted now. Drilled out, helicoiled with a 3D helicoil. ARP studs fitted and head torqued up perfect.

Standard 1D (short) helicoil that comes with kit vs 3D (longer) helicoil

I’ve just read and interesting thread on another forum where someone has almost identical symptoms. As part of the diagnosis process he swapped the left and right bank complete rocker assemblies and the noise went. Might also try that even for a short term fix to confirm it’s not a small end.

Maybe 20/50 thick stuff? Not sure what is in there at the moment.